A TASTE OF THE SEASON : Edible Holiday Gifts From Five Non-Traditional Recipes

In seasons past, my kitchen turned out trays of old-fashioned gingerbread men festooned with red silk ribbons, antique jars filled with homemade fruit-and-nut conserves and chutneys, and Early American crocks ladled to the brim with piquant mustards and tied with crisp taffeta bows. This year, however, the holiday season will be contemporary, a bit non-traditional. There are striking new containers; shimmery Mylar ribbons with metallic twists; punchy paper liners, and flashy metal tins and boxes. Updated, too, are Christmas food offerings: Red-and-Green-Chile-Pepper Vinegar; an original Fresh Cranberry Catsup; a quick-to-bake Pumpkin-Pecan Bread; Chicken Pate with Tarragon and Hazelnuts, and a classic gift for all chocoholics--Chocolate Scottish Shortbread.

RED-AND-GREEN-CHILE-PEPPER VINEGAR

3 to 4 fresh hot chiles, combination of red and green

1 garlic clove, peeled and split

6 to 10 whole black peppercorns

2 cups vinegar (white, cider, sherry-wine, red wine, white wine)

Make 1-inch-long cut on one side of chiles. Place chiles, garlic and peppercorns into clean bottle. Using funnel, fill bottle with vinegar, leaving 1/2 inch space at top. Cap bottles tightly. Place vinegar in cool, dark place and allow flavors to develop 3 to 5 days. Makes 2 cups.

Note: Vinegar may be prepared and bottled several weeks in advance, if kept in cool, dark place. FRESH CRANBERRY CATSUP

12 cups (4 12-ounce packages) fresh or frozen cranberries

2 1/2 cups chopped mild, sweet onions

2 1/2 cups water

2 cups orange juice

2 cups light brown sugar, packed

2 cups granulated sugar

3 cups cider vinegar

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground allspice

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg or mace

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh orange peel

Thaw cranberries if using frozen. In large kettle, bring cranberries, onions, water and orange juice to boil. Partially cover, reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes or until berries are very soft. Cool to lukewarm.

Puree berry mixture in several batches to slightly grainy texture. Return puree to kettle. Stir in brown and granulated sugars, vinegar, salt, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, nutmeg and orange peel. Bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered, stirring frequently for 45 to 60 minutes, or until mixture is consistency of thin catsup (catsup will thicken upon cooling). Remove catsup from heat and spoon into clean glass jars or bottles. Leave 1 inch space at top. Cool slightly, cap tightly and cool completely. Refrigerate until ready to use. Makes 15 cups.

Note: Catsup may be prepared several weeks ahead if refrigerated. PUMPKIN-PECAN BREAD

1 1-pound can pumpkin

cup oil

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup brown sugar, packed

cup apple cider

3 eggs at room temperature

3 cups unbleached flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 cups diced pecans

Crowning Glory Glaze

Pecan halves, optional

Prepare baking pans by greasing and dusting bottom and sides with granulated sugar. Stir together pumpkin, oil, 1 cup granulated sugar, brown sugar, cider and eggs until sugar dissolves and mixture is smooth. Whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg. Gradually incorporate dry ingredients into pumpkin mixture, mixing quickly. Do not over-beat. Stir in diced pecans. Pour batter into prepared pans, filling no more than full.

Bake breads in center of preheated 350-degree oven, 35 to 40 minutes for miniature loaves, 55 to 60 minutes for medium-mini loaves and 75 to 90 minutes for standard loaves. Test breads by inserting cake tester into center. Tops of loaves should feel firm when pressed.

Cool on wire racks. Glaze breads while still barely warm or room temperature with Crowning Glory Glaze. Garnish with pecan halves, if desired. Makes 2 9x5-inch loaves or 4 5 1/2x3-inch loaves or 9 4x2-inch loaves. Crowning Glory Glaze

2 cups powdered sugar, sifted

3 to 4 tablespoons apple cider

Whisk together sugar and cider until smooth and creamy. CHOCOLATE SCOTTISH SHORTBREAD

1 cup unsalted butter, slightly softened

Superfine sugar

2 cups flour

1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 teaspoons grated fresh orange peel

Prepare 2 10-inch round baking pans by lightly greasing and dusting with sugar. Cream butter in large electric mixer bowl until light. Beat in 1 cup sugar until fluffy. Sift together flour, cocoa, salt and cornstarch. Slowly beat dry ingredients into butter mixture. Add vanilla and orange peel. Dough will just begin to gather together and appear slightly crumbly. Form into ball and divide in halves.

Gently roll each dough half into a 10-inch round. Transfer to prepared pans and pat to uniform thickness, spreading into corners. Using blunt-edged knife, cut dough into 8 wedges, cutting almost but not quite through to bottom. Pierce tops with fork in several places. Press fork tines around edge to make decorative border. Chill 1 hour to firm dough. Bake at 325 degrees until shortbread feels firm to touch, about 35 to 45 minutes. Do not allow to brown. Remove shortbread from oven and allow to cool in pans 30 minutes. Dust with sugar while warm. Cool completely. Store in airtight tin or canister at room temperature. Makes 16 wedges.

CHICKEN PATE WITH TARRAGON AND HAZELNUTS

3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts

6 cups water

4 ribs celery, leaves attached, cut in 2-inch pieces

Unsalted butter

1/2 cup shallots

1 cup chopped onions

4 large cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1/2 cup Calvados or brandy

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

cup fresh tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

2 to 3 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black peppercorns

3/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 1/2 cups toasted hazelnuts, diced

Spirited Aspic Glaze

Fresh herb sprigs, allspice berries, whole black peppercorns, apple slices

Cut chicken breasts into 1-inch wide strips. Bring water and celery to simmer in large skillet. Add chicken and gently poach partially covered 10 to 12 minutes, until tender and just cooked through. Allow chicken to cool in liquid until barely warm.

Melt cup butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add shallots, onions, garlic and apples; saute 5 to 7 minutes until softened. Stir in brown sugar; heat 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape mixture into large bowl. Deglaze skillet with Calvados over high heat 3 minutes; stir in cream. Boil 4 to 5 minutes until cream is slightly thickened. Stir in tarragon, lemon juice, lemon rind, salt, pepper, allspice and nutmeg. Remove from heat and combine with drained, poached chicken. Add to shallot-apple mixture in large bowl, and toss together to combine.

In four separate batches, puree mixture in food processor fitted with steel blade, beating 4 tablespoons softened butter into each batch. Add hazelnuts. Taste and correct for seasonings. Spoon pate into small tins or crocks, leaving 1-inch space at top and smoothing tops flat. Refrigerate 1 hour. Spoon 1/8-inch-thick layer of Spirited Aspic Glaze over tops of individual pates. Chill until firm. Decorate tops of aspic with herb sprigs, allspice berries, peppercorns, apple slices or other desired garnishes. Gently spoon additional 1/8-inch-thick layer aspic syrup over decorations. Chill 15 to 20 minutes until firm. Spoon additional -inch layer aspic over tops. Chill, uncovered, several hours or overnight. Makes 8 cups pate.

Note: Pate may be prepared several days before gift-giving if kept refrigerated and covered tightly. Spirited Aspic Glaze

3 envelopes unflavored gelatin

4 cups rich, very clear chicken or beef stock

cup Calvados or brandy

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, strained

Soften gelatin in 1/2 cup stock until clear. Combine with remaining stock, Calvados and lemon juice and bring to simmer. Remove from heat and cool to syrupy stage. PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER

FOOD STYLIST: EDENA SHELDON