The following are summaries of recent Times...

The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Best Place Restaurant, 9693 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove. (714) 638-3600. Open daily .

Korean cuisine is remarkable--full of musk and smoky flavors. A stretch of Garden Grove Boulevard has a number of places to experience it. Look no further: Best Place Restaurant, a barbecue house serving stews, grills, griddles, and even sushi should satisfy all your needs. Try the gool bo sam , a large platter of raw oysters, salt pork, white radish and Chinese cabbage; you roll everything up and eat it like a taco. Pa jeon is a giant pancake with green onion, pork, and red pepper. Sit on low cushions and barbecue beef on a tableside grill, just like the Korean families do it. Remarkably addictive.

La Mer Genkai, 540 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach . (714) 497-6799. Open every day from 5:30 PM. All major credit cards.

La Mer Genkai is a restaurant with something for everybody: the food is Frenchified Japanese, with more than a hint of California thrown in for good measure. Belly up to the sushi bar for such designer treats as “dynamite,” a seaweed-wrapped cone with tuna, daikon sprouts and Japanese chili. Or sit in the woodsy dining room with the pink back-lighting and ape at sauteed duck in raspberry butter served rose petal-style, and simple salmon teriyaki. Both traditional and non-traditional dishes are given a field day in this noisy, exuberant restaurant. Yuppies are especially welcome.