Port of Halifax Offers a Maritime Good Feeling

HALIFAX, Canada —  A summer storm came swirling down, churning up leaves on the sidewalks and sending umbrellas tumbling.

As sheets of rain obstructed the view, we sought shelter in the nearest building--Halifax’s central post office. There, a friendly security guard greeted all the familiar, wet faces passing through the stamp counters. He spotted us immediately; two unfamiliar faces glancing around.

“Hello, you,” he called out. “You must look at the mosaic under your feet of the famous Bluenose racing schooner.”

Stepping back, we gazed at the blue-and-gold tiles designed in the shape of the sleek yacht, which until then seemed nothing more than fashionable artwork.

“You can see the replica of the original schooner moored at the Privateers’ Wharf,” the guard said proudly. “It’s only a block away.”

Such is street life in Halifax, one of Canada’s quaint, out-of-the-way provincial capitals.

The warmth and friendliness of Nova Scotia is not lost here, but in a province known more for its craggy shoreline and hideaway inlets, Halifax is a haven for maritime history buffs.

Nestled on a peninsula that forms a large natural harbor, Halifax is an ice-free port that is navigable year-round. As a result, the city is steeped in maritime marvels, not the least being the famous Bluenose.

While walking along the renovated dock, we found the impressive Bluenose II resting peacefully in its berth. The 143-foot, two-masted schooner is a replica of the original built in 1921. The Bluenose plied the seas as a fishing ship, but her sleek design helped her win many international races.

She was undefeated in 20 years of racing, and as a tribute, she was featured on a Canadian 10-cent silver coin. In 1946, the yacht met misfortune and sank off Haiti. The Halifax Herald proclaimed: “Her passing is a national sorrow; the ignominy of her death, a national shame.”

A replica of the Bluenose II was launched in 1963 and is permanently moored here.

Life in Halifax begins at the wharf, a conglomeration of refurbished wood-and-stone buildings dating from 1800 to 1905. A waterfront boardwalk provides easy access to the many shops in the Historic Properties section.

This is Halifax’s original settlement, where pirates brought their cargo to peddle and store. Many of the buildings have been converted into tourist shops, boutiques, cafes, pubs and restaurants.

The Old Red Store, once used for shipping operations with its hipped roof and large hoistway dormers, is now the Nova Scotia Tourist Center. The center has a wide selection of books from Nova Scotian authors, who bring the province’s history of French and English pioneers to life.

Halifax’s city tourist bureau is downtown, at the corner of Duke and Barrington streets. Free city maps are offered in front of the bureau.

Halifax was first settled in 1749, when the British--some 2,500 strong--founded a military base here. The Halifax harbor was used as a British naval base during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. During both world wars, Halifax was a major supply center for ships heading to Europe.

Life in Halifax begins at the wharf, a conglomeration of refurbished wood-and-stone buildings dating from 1800 to 1905. A waterfront boardwalk provides easy access to the many shops in the Historic Properties section.

In 1917, the biggest man-made explosion before the atomic bomb occurred when a French munitions ship, the Mont Blanc, carrying 4,000 tons of TNT, collided with the Imo in the harbor. Half of Halifax was laid to ruins and a reported 2,000 died from the blast.

Although the city has never come under attack, it has not lost its military presence, with the majestic old compound on Citadel Hill standing over Halifax like a great protective wall.

The Citadel’s landmark is the Old Town Clock, which sits in stately fashion on an emerald green hillside in front of the fort.

The clock, shipped from England in 1803, was designed by the garrison commander, the Duke of Kent. It still chimes the correct time, the bells echoing across the city.

The star-shaped garrison of Citadel Hill was constructed between 1829 and 1861, and is the fourth fortress built on the site. The fort is open free to the public from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. during the summer, and from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from September to June.

Guided tours, lasting about three quarters of an hour, are given by Canadian park rangers, who offer detailed accounts of the fort’s past.

A highlight of the tour is the ceremonial changing of the guards and a traditional gun salute, as well as the playing of bagpipes by members of the Scottish Highlanders.

Views from the fort’s highest points are spectacular when looking across the harbor to Halifax’s sister city of Dartmouth.

Downtown, St. Paul’s Church--constructed in 1750--is said to be Canada’s oldest Anglican church. St. Paul’s epitomizes the British influence here. Whereas Quebec City feels as French as a boulangerie , Halifax is as English as tea and crumpets.

Especially during a rainstorm.

The best months to visit Halifax are June through October, when temperatures are mild. July and August are the warmest months, but September and October offer spectacular scenes of changing foliage.

Halifax is host this year to the World Ice Skating Championships March 5-12 at the downtown Metro Center. The event is the sport’s premier competition outside of the Olympics.

Summer tourists can enjoy two major events--Festival ’90 and the International Buskers Festival.

Festival ‘90--a celebration of Halifax’s birthday--runs from July 27 to Aug. 6. Activities include fireworks shows, an Irish dance festival, a jazz festival, an international town cryer competition and a beach party.

The Buskers competition, from Aug. 9-18, features street performers such as jugglers, puppeteers and magicians who ply their trade day and night along city streets. Spectators select their favorite act at the week’s end.

Recommended accommodations:

The Gerrard Hotel, 1234 Barrington St., is a beautiful Old English-style establishment within walking distance of most of the city’s attractions. Although it has only nine rooms, the hotel also runs the Harvey House bed and breakfast inn in the back.

Rooms at either establishment are $43 U.S. for two with breakfast, $38 without. The hotel’s breakfast is worth a special note; it’s as good as any we found in the Maritimes. Call (902) 423-8614.

The Fountain View Guest House, 2138 Robie St., is inexpensive but offers only four rooms. It is just off the Halifax Commons, the city’s largest park. Rates range from $18 to $26. Call (902) 422-4169.

The Halliburton Inn, 1584 Morris St., is three restored Georgian-styled homes with 34 rooms. The inn is known for its afternoon teas and dinners. The owners are Buddhists from California and Colorado. Rates range from $57 to $78, with some suites between $96 and $113. Call (902) 420-0658.

The Queen St. Inn, 1266 Queen St., a historic heritage home circa 1860, has six rooms, each decorated differently. Rates range from $26 to $35. Call (902) 477-1674.

The Cat and Fiddle Inn, 1946 Oxford St. Rates range from $25-$34. Call (902) 422-3222.

Across the harbor, Dartmouth also provides accommodations and is linked with Halifax by two bridges--the MacDonald and the MacKay--as well as an inexpensive ferry service that has been operating since the 1750s.

In Dartmouth, try the Martin House, 62 Pleasant St. The inn overlooks the harbor. Rates range from $39-$51. Some suites for $65. Call (902) 469-1896.

Numerous quaint fishing villages can be found within 20 miles southwest of Halifax on the Lighthouse Route 333, and a few offer inexpensive B&Bs.;

Lovers Lane Inn and Cottages (Box 4, Site 31, RR No. 1, Tantallon, Nova Scotia BOJ 3JO), just beyond the Lighthouse Route, offer accommodations recommended by the Nova Scotia Tourist Bureau. Rates range from $26-$44. Call (902) 823-2670.

The Seabright Bed and Breakfast inn (Seabright, Nova Scotia BOJ 3JO) has a private beach. Rates range from $31-$35. Call (902) 823-2987.

As for food, Halifax offers international fare, though seafood is its specialty. Both the city center and Historic Properties section have a number of fine restaurants.

Halifax also has one of the finest pub districts in Canada. Most of the 50 pubs serve hearty food at modest prices in the early evening. The pubs, which resemble some of London’s finest, are concentrated along Argyle Street in downtown or in the Historic Properties section. Most are restored 19th-Century buildings.

Halifax has an international airport about 25 miles northwest of the city, along Route 102. Air Canada is the only carrier servicing Los Angeles to Halifax daily. All flights have stopovers in Montreal or Toronto. Round-trip fares are about $465 plus tax. For more information, call toll-free (800) 424-3687.

Bus service in the city is good, but visitors should have access to a car to drive through the spectacular countryside.

For more information, contact Tourism Halifax at (902) 421-6448 or the Nova Scotia Tourist Bureau, P.O. Box 130, Halifax, Canada B3J 2M7, (800) 341-6096 or (902) 424-5000.