Out-Dressing the Competition

The Series: “The Tonight Show,” weeknights at 11:35 on NBC.

The Setup: Comedian Jay Leno (pictured) hosts the late-night talk show, sharing the stage with jazz musician Branford Marsalis in this update of Johnny Carson’s version of the show. Bandleader Marsalis replaced Doc Severinsen. There is no longer an Ed McMahon-style straight man.

The Look: From the get go, Leno has been clear about one thing: He wants to make his own fashion statement. And he has. It’s a generation or two younger and hipper than the country-club nattiness of the blue-blazered Carson. Leno’s mostly double-breasted suits and wide, floral- or amoeba-print ties are more in keeping with the look of a powerful executive in a creative industry--say, advertising or entertainment. He favors loose-fitting, softly draped suits in soft shades of green--olive, tan-green and gray-green. Overall, he comes to the job looking serious, unlike his more laid-back competition--Dennis Miller (blazers and jeans) and Arsenio Hall (new-leather-jacket-of-the-week.)

A word of praise for the spread-collar white shirts he frequently wears that allow his elongated chin to, ahem, appear shorter. Longtime Leno watchers will notice that all this high-style business is new for him, and he has made some mistakes--like the nights he wore the white and camel blazers (oops, too country club). He could ease up on the green suits because darker shades, such as black, are attractive on him, too. It will also be nice when he begins to relax into his new look and take some chances--perhaps mixing patterns.

It should be noted that Leno has stiff competition in Marsalis, who is a long way from Severinsen’s over-the-top look. Marsalis is very easy on the eyes. His suits are soft, dark and Italian; his printed ties are subdued, and his shirts are in unexpected shades. Most of the male band members are nicely suited up as well. It’s also refreshing to see the female percussionist, Vicki Randle, doing her own thing in big natural hair, ethnic jewelry, bare arms and African prints. Unfortunately, the TV audience gets to see her for only about a second per show.

The Sources: Beverly Hills retailer Fred Hayman has the “exclusive” on Leno’s threads. Leno wears Hayman’s private-label suits as well as other labels, including Zegna, Krizia, Ginochietti and V2 by Versace. Marsalis is clothed courtesy of Armani.

The Payoff: Leno and company have a contemporary presence that’s neither too hip nor too classic.