THE WINE LIST

The cooking at Chinois on Main is imaginative; so is the wine list, which offers the creative diner lots of chances to delve into uncharted waters.

Interested in ordering one of the hot dishes--or one of the sweet ones? Consider pairing it with 1988 Joseph Phelps Viognier, $36; 1989 Trimbach Gewurztraminer, $24, or 1986 Trimbach Riesling, $34.

For grilled chicken, try a lighter red wine such as 1988 Kalin Pinot Noir, $38. For the heavier fish dishes--tuna or salmon--try 1989 Duckhorn Merlot, $36, or 1989 Guigal Cotes du Rhone, $22.

The wine list, not remarkably different from the one at Spago, is displayed on a single, easy-to-read laminated card. The 135 wines include two dozen French reds, 30 California reds, and 30 Chardonnays. Prices are high, but not as high as those at other upscale eateries. And the broad selection offers a number of interesting wines from tiny producers.

Best of all, the waiters really seem to know their stuff. One diner ordered a Stony Hill Chardonnay. The waiter recommended against it, saying, correctly, that the wine needed bottle age.

Still, it would be nice to see lower prices for some of the more expensive wines: The 1988 Baron de L from Ladoucette is superb wine, but not worth $76 a bottle. And it would be nice if there were a couple of Italian wines on the list.