The Rib Masters : Rib Tips From Woody

It’s not easy to get what Woody Phillips calls “that good, smoky barbecue taste.” The pros have an edge over most backyard grillers--the good ones have wood-fired brick ovens and the time and the experience to get the fire just right. But even if you have just a simple kettle grill and use commercial charcoal briquettes, Phillips suggests there are a few things you can do to improve your barbecue.

* “Quality meat comes first. Put a bad steak on a grill, it’s going to tell you it’s a bad steak. Put a good steak on the grill, it’ll tell you, ‘hey, you’re a good cook.’ ”

* “If you’re doing ribs, find some nice ribs, 3 1/2 and down ribs (ribs come in different sizes; 3 1/2-down would mean that the rack was 3 1/2 pounds and under).”

* “If you’re going to do chicken, don’t cook the whole chicken. Split the chicken and cook it in halves; that way it cooks evenly.”

* “For backyard beef barbecuing, use the part of a sirloin tip called tri-tip instead of brisket. It’s a little more expensive, but it’s the best piece of beef that can be used. It’s what I use, and it’s one of my secrets. Plus, tri-tip doesn’t take as long to cook as brisket, maybe 1 1/2 or 2 hours--it cooks just like steak.”

* “If you’re going to try the brisket, find a nice tender piece. Brisket is going to take a long time to cook, at least 3 1/2, 4 hours . . . or longer.”

* “I don’t recommend all these seasonings that you find in the store. They’re a waste of money.”

* “Simplify. Salt and black pepper is all you need to season your meat.”

* “If you’re going to use charcoal, don’t take 10 pounds and pour it into your grill at one time. Put in a small amount of charcoal and don’t just throw your meat on the pit or the grill as soon as you get your fire going. Let the coals burn down some before you put your meat on.”

* “Once the process of cooking the meat begins, let it cook slow. Don’t rush it. Ribs will take you at least 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Chicken is basically the same, 1 1/2 hours, cooking it slow.”

* “Do not get that ketchup sauce and start pouring it on the meat as soon as you put it on the pit. If you do, you’re going to have some burnt barbecue, charred on the outside, uncooked on the inside.”

* “If you’re going to do a little ‘marin-aise’ sauce (also known as a “mop”), do something light, some lemon juice maybe, a little butter, whatever.”

* “If you’re going to use a sauce from the store, take that sauce and thin it down, just put a little water in. You can maybe add a little something to it---butter, and you might want to put an onion in. You can use this for a ‘marin-aising’ sauce and it will come out very good.”

* “Don’t ‘marin-aise’ too soon. Let the meat cook till it’s almost to your liking, medium-rare, or whatever. The meat should be about 80% done, the ribs especially.”

* “Do not ‘marin-aise’ both sides of the meat. ‘Marin-aise’ only the top, the part away from the heat. The heat will draw the ‘marin-aise’ from the top of the meat through. That’s what helps make things tender and juicy. And it really gives the meat a good flavor.”

* “Once you ‘marin-aise,’ do not turn the meat over. Let it just cook. Once that ‘marin-aise’ dissolves into the meat--maybe another 20, 30 minutes for ribs and chicken, longer for brisket--then it’s ready and you’ll have the tenderness and the flavor.”

* “Remember, don’t just start slapping a lot of sauce on the top and bottom to color your meat. That, to me, is not barbecue. That is what you call a mess.”