‘Mr. John’; Hat Designer for Hollywood Stars

John P. John, who as “Mr. John” was internationally acclaimed for his classically shaped hats of the 1940s and 1950s and his period designs for Hollywood films, has died in New York. He was reportedly 91.

John died Friday at his Manhattan apartment of a heart attack.

Among his designs for Hollywood leading ladies were Vivien Leigh’s Civil War-era hats in “Gone With the Wind,” Marlene Dietrich’s hats in “Shanghai Express,” Greta Garbo’s headgear in “The Painted Veil” and Marilyn Monroe’s chapeau in “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.”

His clients included Mary Pickford, Hedy Lamarr, Eva Gabor, Lauren Bacall, the Duchess of Windsor, Gloria Vanderbilt and Gypsy Rose Lee.

John’s fashion firsts included the Charleston cloche of the late 1920s, tailored hats trimmed in tulle, crocheted hats and folding straw hats for travel. He is also credited with introducing the perennially popular shoulder strap bag and, in the 1950s, the stole and ballet slippers for street wear.

In addition to women’s hats, John designed and marketed dresses, hosiery, perfume and jewelry, and a men’s line of cravats, shirts, cuff links and cologne.

John earned the American Fashion Critics Award, the Neiman-Marcus Award, the Millinery Institute of America’s “Oscar” and the Venice Award given by the International Center of Arts and Costume.

Writing about John’s display of his work at the now-defunct I. Magnin’s Wilshire in 1965, then Los Angeles Times fashion editor Fay Hammond described him: “He looks like Napoleon incarnate, but when he maneuvers a silk scarf into a hat before your eyes, he commands the dexterity of a magician and the sensitivity of a fine artist.”

At that time, when teased bouffant hairstyles were threatening the millinery industry, John advised his customers: “Hairdressers and orthopedic hairdos can have their moments at night, but a hat will show your manners by day.”

John told various stories about his birth date--either 1902 or 1906--and his birthplace--either Florence or Vienna or Munich--and even his birth name--Hansi Harburger or John Pico Harberger. He immigrated with his family to New Rochelle, N.Y., after World War I and eventually adopted the name John Pico John.

He worked for a time in his mother’s millinery shop on New York’s Madison Avenue and soon opened his own salon. From 1928 until 1948 John worked in partnership with Frederic Hirst under the John Frederics label. The firm had outlets for its custom designs in Hollywood, New York, Miami and Palm Beach. John continued alone under his Mr. John label until 1970, when the declining popularity of hats closed the business.