COOKBOOK WATCH

Certainly, “Gulf Coast Fish” (Norton, $35) wasn’t written for Southern California cooks; many of the fish described by New Orleans-based chef Roy F. Guste are available only to those who fish the Gulf. But Guste’s encyclopedic cataloging of each fish variety and watercolor illustrations by Mark Green for each entry make this a book worth checking out if you’re passionate about fish. Among the recipes: common jack smothered in jalapen~o-tequila sauce, pan-fried white grunt with key lime sauce, baked hogfish with apples and onions, and wood-grilled black grouper with achiote-garlic paste.