Love and Peas

Summer may mean beach and sun to some. But to me it’s always meant fresh sweet peas, the kind that come right out of the garden in beautiful, crisp pods. Angelenos enjoyed the same summer pleasure 100 years ago too.

In the July 31, 1898, issue of the Los Angeles Sunday Times Illustrated Magazine Section, one “Mid-Summer Cooking” recipe in the women’s pages was for puree of green peas. It calls for both the peas and their pods (English spring peas work best), because the water in which the pods are cooked enhances the sweetness of the dish.

Along with stewed pears and clams a la Newburg, the puree was considered one of the “Dishes That Are Light and Palatable in Hot Weather,” according to a headline atop The Times’ recipe column.

Surprisingly, it makes a terrific reduced-fat guacamole-type dip to go with tortilla chips. Could it be that the creative sweet pea guacamole that Michael Roberts made famous at Trumps in the 1980s was not the first? (In fairness, the 1898 pureed peas were probably intended as a side dish to accompany meat or poultry.)

If you like, the recipe can be halved.

*

GREEN PEA PUREE (VEGETARIAN)

4 cups shelled peas and their pods

4 cups cold water

2 cups milk

1 small onion, quartered

1 bay leaf

Few sprigs parsley

2 to 3 whole cloves

1 tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon butter

Salt

White pepper

Place peas in saucepan and set aside.

Wash pods and place in separate saucepan. Add water, bring to boil over medium heat and cook 15 minutes. Discard pods and reserve 2 cups cooking water.

Pour reserved cooking water over peas, bring to boil over medium heat and cook 20 minutes. Drain peas. Mash through colander or food mill and place in top of double boiler.

Bring milk to boil in saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, bay leaf, parsley and cloves and simmer 10 minutes. Strain and add mixture to mashed peas. Keep hot in top of double boiler.

Cook flour and butter in saucepan over medium-low heat until hot and smooth. Gradually stir in milk and pea mixture. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Stir until thickness of heavy cream, about 10 minutes. Strain through sieve.

4 servings. Each serving:

161 calories; 170 mg sodium; 17 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 3.75 grams fiber.