Wine of the Week

1997 Saracco Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy (About $13)

Moscato d’Asti is a delightful dessert wine made in the Piedmont region of Italy from Moscato Bianco (white Muscat) grapes. One of the best examples comes from the young producer Paolo Saracco. His 1997 (a superb vintage in Italy) is delicate and fresh, like peach juice spangled with bubbles. It’s sweeter in the nose than on the palate, sparkling with fresh, tart acidity. It also has the virtue of being low in alcohol, usually under 8% (though the label for some reason reads 12.5%).

It’s a wonderful summer wine. Serve it chilled all on its own as dessert. Or drink it with peach pie, a buttery cake or sliced fruit.