1997 Vega Sindoa “El Chaparral Old Vines” Grenache, Navarra, Spain (About $8)

This is one of the finds of the year: an old-vines Grenache from Spain that smells like a top-flight Grenache from the Rho^ne and sells for less than $10 a bottle. The fruit is gorgeous, floral and peppery, with a dry, tannic finish that keeps you coming back to the glass for another sip. Big and juicy, it’s everything Grenache can be when it’s made right.

It will suit grilled meats beautifully and, now that fall is here, daubes and winey stews.