Wine of the Week

Occasionally you feel like a white wine other than Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling. Here’s a terrific new Semillon to perk up your white wine selection. Though Semillon plays a supporting role in Sauternes and in the dry whites of Graves from Bordeaux, in this fine example, from a new winery in Australia’s Clare Valley, it steps out on its own. With silken texture, beautiful fruit and bright acidity, the 1999 Quartetto Semillon is a great match with all sorts of food. It also has the virtue of going down easily.

About $17. Available at the Wine House, 2311 Cotner Ave., West L.A., (310) 479-3731; Woodland Hills Wine Co., 22622 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111; and the Wine Exchange, 2368 N. Orange Mall, Orange, (714) 974-1454. If you can’t find this wine, have your retailer call the Grateful Palate, (888) 472-5283.