Exploring the Full Range of Chicken Terms

Why did the chicken cross the road? No, not to get to the other side; it was a free-range chicken and could go anywhere it wanted.

So that’s not the funniest joke you’ve ever heard. But an interesting part of that not-so-funny joke is that free-range chickens are really no freer than any other kind of chicken. The only difference is that instead of being confined to an indoor facility their whole lives, they are allowed to go into a controlled outdoor facility.

Free-range chickens do not freely forage for food. They are not necessarily happier chickens. They are fed exactly the same things that cooped-up chickens are fed. They are no leaner. They are no healthier. They are not less likely to be contaminated with salmonella. They are just more expensive.

Because chicken is one of those animal protein foods that nutrition experts rarely single out as one to cut back, it is helpful to know what all the various labeling terms mean.

So, in alphabetical order, here’s almost everything you ever wanted to know about chicken:

* Antibiotic free: Unlike humans, who are given antibiotics only to cure bacterial disease, poultry are fed antibiotics to encourage growth. Any chicken labeled “antibiotic free” has not been fed antibiotics for any part of its life (from the hatchery to processing).

* Broilers/fryers: These are the most popular types of chicken. The birds are between 6 and 8 weeks old and weigh from 2 1/2 to 5 pounds. They are meaty and tender and are extremely versatile. In addition to broiling and frying, they cook well roasted, grilled, poached, steamed or sauteed. The only thing they are not good for is stewing, because their meat will dry out and become stringy.

(See below for stewing chicken information.)

* Capons: Male chickens that have been surgically castrated become large and tender at a young age. Capons are about 15 to 16 weeks old and weigh 9 1/2 to 10 1/2 pounds. They have much more white meat than most chickens, but also have a layer of fat under the skin. This makes the white meat fatter than other chickens’. They are best when roasted.

* Certified organic: This is a fairly new U.S. Department of Agriculture labeling term indicating that a chicken has been fed certified organic feed throughout its life. This means that the feed is made up of grains grown free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers for at least three years. No drugs of any kind may be used in producing “organic chickens.”

To cut down on cheating, an independent third party must certify that organic practices were followed from start to finish. The label should include the words “by a third party certifier.”

* Hormone free: Before 1960, hormones were used to calm chickens and standardize the meat, but they have not been used for more than 35 years. So if you see the words “hormone free” on the label and think you are paying more, find another chicken. All chickens are hormone free.

* Natural: According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the designation of “natural” on any product means that it contains no artificial flavoring, coloring, chemical preservatives or other synthetic ingredients. It also must be processed as little as possible.

In the case of chicken, however, even if it is smoked, roasted, frozen, dried or fermented to make it edible or safe to eat, it can still be labeled “natural.”

Another exception for chickens--contrary to what some processors would lead you to believe--is that chickens labeled as natural can be fed antibiotics.

* Roasters: These chickens are a little older and larger than broilers/fryers. They can be 3 to 5 months old and weigh about 5 to 6 pounds. Their meat is tender and tasty and they work well roasted (as their name would imply) and also grilled, braised or stewed.

* Rock Cornish hens: These little birds are a cross between a Cornish game cock and a White Plymouth Rock chicken. They are quite small (three-fourths to 2 pounds) and usually are served one per person. They are brought to the market at 5 to 6 weeks of age and consequently are very low in fat. They are normally sold frozen and lend themselves to roasting, broiling, braising or sauteing. They are often served stuffed.

* Stewing chickens: The life span of a commercial chicken is not very long, but when hens that are about a year old and weigh between 4 and 6 pounds (presumably they are no longer laying eggs) are sent to market, they can still be used for stewing, braising or making stock. Their meat, however, can be tough if cooked in any other way.

* Vegetarian diet: Obviously, a vegetarian diet does not include chicken, but chickens can be raised on a diet that does not include any animal byproducts and can be labeled accordingly.

The popularity of chicken in the United States has been going up since the 1940s, when modern breeding and marketing techniques made it much more affordable. We now eat almost 50 pounds a year for every man, woman and child in America.

As with anything else, however, there are good ways and bad ways to shop for, handle, prepare and preserve chicken.

Next week we’ll cover that part of the story.

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Dr. Sheldon Margen is professor of public health at UC Berkeley; Dale A. Ogar is managing editor of the UC Berkeley Wellness Letter. They are the authors of several books, including “The Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition.” Send questions to Dale Ogar, School of Public Health, UC Berkeley, CA 94720-7360, or e-mail daogar@uclink4.berkeley.edu.