1998 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon

In just over a dozen years, Domaine Drouhin, the Oregon outpost of the distinguished Burgundy house Maison Joseph Drouhin, has taken the lead in Oregon Pinot Noirs. And this one from the outstanding 1998 vintage in Oregon could be their best yet. A brilliant garnet in color, it has a sweet, pretty nose and that silky texture that characterizes top Burgundies. Its bright fruit is supported by soft ripe tannins, so it’s drinkable now, with pleasure, but this bottle will also age beautifully. A wine that does the grape proud, the 1998 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir points the way to a bright future for Pinot Noir in the northern Willamette Valley

About $32. Available at fine wine shops. If you can’t find this wine, have your local retailer contact the winery at (503) 864-2700.