Passing Through

In 1931, Clifford E. Clinton and his wife, Nelda, opened Clifton’s Pacific Seas Cafeteria on Olive Street downtown. Of the half-dozen cafeterias the family eventually owned, only two remain: the West Covina location and Clifton’s Brookdale on South Broadway. In honor of Clifton’s 70th birthday, we visited the downtown location, where guests dine amid a bucolic landscape of redwoods, deer and a mountaintop chapel, choosing from an array of hot and cold dishes, none priced more than $7.49.

Martha Saldivar-Espinoza, paralegal, Whittier

Are you a regular?

We’ve been coming since I was 5 or 6. We come every Friday. I meet my mom for lunch.

Best decor item?

The bear.

Why are there fewer cafeterias these days?

It’s more modernized now as opposed to the old traditional way. That gives Clifton’s more authenticity.

What’s your least-favorite cooked vegetable?

I don’t like broccoli. I did a diet, and I ate broccoli every day.

What’s the best color for Jell-O?

Red. It’s bright.

Maria Salome Hass, retired dressmaker, North Hollywood

How long have you been coming to Clifton’s?

Maybe 10 years.

Best decor item?

The running water, like a fountain. It looks like the mountains, when you need a vacation.

Why are there fewer cafeterias these days?

I think the competition.

What’s your least-favorite cooked vegetable?

I like all vegetables because when I was little, my grandma and grandpa had all kinds of vegetables on the patio.

Ever try the Jell-O?

Sometimes I try the yellow. Sometimes the red. Sometimes the green. My favorite is the yellow because sometimes it has a piece of pear inside.

Casey W. Hartney, security officer, downtown L.A.

Are you a regular?

I’ve been coming here since ’65.

What’s the draw?

You leave your pretenses at the door.

What do you usually eat?

I like the turkey meatloaf. The coffee’s wonderful. I don’t like Starbucks. I like the old stuff.

Best decor item?

The moose head. I don’t know what it’s doing there, ‘cause moose don’t really hang out in the redwood forest.

Why are there fewer cafeterias these days?

Fast-food restaurants. You can’t compete with the speed or inexpensiveness of Burger King or Jack in the Box.

What’s your least-favorite cooked vegetable?

What’s the stuff they make sauerkraut out of?

Ever try the Jell-O?

Oh, sure. C’mon. Are you kidding? I think it was just invented when I started coming here.

Annie Merritt, retired sewing machine operator, Los Angeles

Are you a regular?

Oh, yeah, for going on 60 years. When I first found out about this, I was working up the street at the Alexandria Hotel.

Favorite dish?

The fried chicken. I was brought up on fried chicken.

Best decor item?

That deer used to be right up here. They moved him. I like it ‘cause they got the chickens and the crow.

Ever try the Jell-O?

Yes, it’s delicious. Sometimes they have it with fruit.