Just thinking about those biscuits ...

On a late Sunday morning, the screen door at Quality Food & Beverage on West 3rd Street swings open and shut. Two 10-year-olds, who look as if they’re auditioning for roles in “Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm,” tussle and giggle.

Half a dozen garden tables out front are populated with a motley crew of parents and kids, sipping Coca-Cola from classic glass bottles, sleepy Gen X-ers and older couples attired for golf or tennis.

Inside are two small dining rooms painted a pale lime. A pottery vase holds a loose bouquet of flowers. The simple wooden chairs are painted avocado green, and the sturdy wooden tables are so glossy they look as if caramel sauce has been poured over the top.

This 10-year-old spot feels like a diner where it’s perpetually summer. Fresh lemonade is $2 a glass. “Summer” salad is diced tomatoes and cucumbers topped with a slab of feta. The BLT comes with thick slices of bacon and your choice of bread: sourdough, rye or wheat.

Curried chicken salad tastes like something that was in fashion in the ‘70s, which is about the same era as the oldies playing on the sound system.

Waitresses are efficient and friendly. And the food for the most part is very decent. On a Sunday morning, the laid-back atmosphere is perfect for breakfast, and tables are big enough to spread out the paper. Morning’s first requirement, fresh OJ, though, turns out to come from jugs instead of being freshly squeezed, which it should be at $2.95 a glass. Drip coffee comes in thick white mugs. There’s espresso and cappuccino too.

Quality’s homemade biscuits, tasting of baking powder and buttermilk, are hot items in the morning. You can order them as a side, but they also come with a good many breakfast entrees. Those include the corned beef hash -- two poached eggs perched on a pale pink, finely diced hash more reminiscent of scrapple than traditional, beefier hash. The challah French toast is a must, cut two fingers thick, crusty on the outside, tender and eggy inside.

I know one kid so enamored of the eggs Benedict here, he makes his father bring him for breakfast every Sunday. Could it possibly be the biscuit that stands in for the English muffin that makes it so appealing? Ditto for the Scottish Benedict, which is made with Atlantic smoked salmon.

Dessert? Forget about it. They don’t have it.

But for breakfast and lunch, Quality is open every day. They do takeout too.

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Quality Food & Beverage

Where: 8030 W. 3rd St.,

Los Angeles

When: Monday to Friday, 8 a.m.

to 3 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Street parking.

Cost: Breakfast, $4.95 to $9.95; salads, $4.95 to $9.95; sandwiches, $7.95 to $9.95; sides, $1.50 to $3.95.

Contact: (323) 658-5959