2004 Grosset ‘Polish Hill’ Clare Valley Riesling

Deep gold with glints of green, the 2004 Grosset “Polish Hill” has a wonderful steely character and a haunting scent of lime and slate. This is an Australian Riesling that rivals the best from Germany and Alsace.

Its firm acidity and ripe Riesling flavors make it a natural with all sorts of seafood. Drink it with Dungeness crab, oysters or clams on the half shell. It’s also brilliant with Thai and other Asian food. Given the extraordinary quality, it’s a bargain.

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Quick swirl

Region: Clare Valley, Australia

Price: About $30

Style: Cool and minerally

Food it goes with: Raw or chilled shellfish, Dungeness crab, Thai and Asian food

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Mission Wines in South Pasadena (626) 403-9463; The Wine Cask in Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.