When small is big

It seems as if every restaurant in town these days is doing sliders, those irresistible mini burgers made famous by White Castle.

Simon L.A.

Among the dishes that won Simon Kerry the Iron Chef America title a little more than a year ago was a burger flavored with onions and shiitake mushrooms cooked in bacon fat. Simon does a redux of it at his stylish eatery in the Sofitel. The three-biter comes with an appropriately sized serving of crisp truffle fries and the cutest little vanilla shake you ever met.

* Mini burger, $16. 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (310) 358-3979.

Sapphire Laguna

Lamb sliders are on the lunch and brunch menu at this new global eatery. Tucked into the center of each patty is a nugget of Humboldt Fog goat cheese. It’s topped with sauteed onions touched with pomegranate molasses and slipped into sweet Portuguese buns. Tempura asparagus spears accompany.

* Lamb sliders, $14.50. 1200 South Coast Highway, Laguna, (949) 715-9888.

The Prime Grill

At this 3-month-old red-meat specialist (which also happens to be kosher), the meat for the Wagyu steak sliders is hand-

chopped to order. And to best show off the meat’s full flavor, the bread -- a house-made brioche bun -- is served dry. You do, however, get a side of the house sauce, a cross between barbecue and ketchup.

* Sliders, $18. 421 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 860-1233.

Chaya Venice

You can always get a beef burger at this hip Cal-Asian spot. But only late at night (from 10:30 to midnight Mondays through Thursdays, and 11 to midnight Fridays and Saturdays) does the kitchen do sliders, tiny facsimiles of the standard signature burger. They’re topped with aged white cheddar cheese, mango chutney, grilled onions and spicy mayo.

* Sliders, $8.50. 110 Navy St., Venice, (310) 396-1179.

Sidebar

The American-style Kobe sliders served four to an order in this sleek hotel bar have achieved cult status, and for good reason. The bun is extra buttery brioche. Garlic aioli is painted on the bottom bun. On top of the patty go aged gouda, house-made butter pickles, tomato confit, chopped red onion and shallot jalapeno marmalade. Lastly, in a nod to tradition, there’s a smear of ketchup.

* Kobe sliders, $20. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-8500.

-- Leslee Komaiko