Elegant, but with a playful side

There’s more to Montecito than the famed San Ysidro Ranch, honeymoon hideaway of John and Jackie Kennedy and playground of movie royalty. The unincorporated area is also home to outdoor adventure and relaxed cafe life. Montecito’s front yard is the Pacific Ocean and its backyard is the Los Padres National Forest, with Santa Barbara and Summerland on either side. This quiet, laid-back stretch is fiercely protective of its “understated elegance,” but the explorer will be rewarded with a few exciting finds.

Primitive beaches

Located at Channel Drive and Butterfly Lane, Butterfly Beach is small, and even smaller during high tide. It provides a spectacular view of Santa Barbara’s waterfront. Bring your own food and drink; there are no public facilities (that includes restrooms). Beach access is across from the Four Seasons Biltmore and limited, free street parking is available.

On the trail

Montecito’s trails have become more popular since the recent Jesusita Fire closed Santa Barbara’s other front country trails. Cold Spring Trail and San Ysidro Trail offer the option to take an easy hike or an arduous one ( www.santabarbarahikes.com). Both paths include waterfalls and streams. The cool June weather keeps the rattlesnake population at bay, though the marine layer doesn’t afford great views of the Pacific.

Village life

Shopping is divided into two zones: Coast Village Road and the Upper Village. Coast Village Road runs near the 101 and is home to a grocery store, restaurants, real estate offices, banks, clothing boutiques and art galleries. The hub of the Upper Village is at San Ysidro and East Valley roads (Highway 192), and features a cheese shop, jewelry and antique stores along with other upscale shopping and dining spots.

Botanical gardens

Sandwiched between the mountains and the sea is Lotusland (695 Ashley Road, [805] 969-9990, www.lotusland.org). Lotusland is a garden on the 37-acre estate of Madame Ganna Walska, who died in 1984. It is botanical treasure to be sure, but also a glimpse into the eccentricity of its creator. The visit is a docent-led, two-hour tour and reservations are required.

Easy eats

Montecito Coffee Shop (1498 E. Valley Road, [805] 969-6250) serves up a good breakfast along with the town’s latest news. Jeannine’s Bakery (1253 Coast Village Road, [805] 969-7878) has full breakfast in addition to baked goods. Via Vai is a favorite trattoria and pizzeria (1483 E. Valley Road, [805] 565-9393). The Montecito Cafe dishes include fresh and homemade meals at surprisingly low prices (1295 Coast Village Road, [805] 969-3392, www.montecitocafe.com).

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