Food blogger and author Lucy Lean (“Made in America: Our Best Chefs Reinvent Comfort Food”) joins, from left, chefs Ludo Lefebvre; Stephane Bombet, a managing partner at Picca, Mo-Chica and Paiche; and chef-owner Ricardo Zarate. (Apologies, Ludo, we caught you with your eyes closed!) (Rene Lynch / Los Angeles Times)