Araya’s Place for vegan Thai: avocado curry, coconut milk iced tea and tofu satay

Name of restaurant: Araya’s Place

Concept: Vegan Thai food fit for omnivores, in a cozy space miles from Thai Town, on the stretch of Beverly Boulevard between the Grove and the Beverly Center. In a way, Araya’s is the opposite of the classic L.A. Thai restaurant. The atmosphere is calm and pristine, and both food and ambience are geared more toward health-conscious Westside vegans and vegans-adjacent than fervent J. Gold-stalking Eastsiders, or even casual consumers of Thai takeout. The menu is not only vegan, but several items are designated specifically as gluten-free. I can’t imagine asking a waiter at Jitlada about gluten-free options. The selection is solid, with major Thai food groups well represented. It turns out that Thai food is relatively easy to veganize — tofu is a natural substitute for meat, and coconut milk doesn’t come from a cow. Araya’s food is worth seeking out even if you don’t swing vegan. I say this as someone who has been tricked into eating terrible seitan way too many times.

What dish represents the restaurant, and why? The avocado curry, a green curry loaded with avocado, seitan, soft tofu, fried tofu, bell pepper and basil. The green curry is excellent, well spiced with just the right thickness. It’s creamy with coconut milk, but not too dependent on that ingredient. The seitan and tofu are the more traditional meat substitutions, but the avocado really takes on that starring role. It’s cut into generous wedges that meld beautifully with the curry, both in flavor and texture. The tofu is good too, and honestly, Araya’s might be the first place I’ve had seitan I wouldn’t light dramatically on fire before eating again.

Runner ups: The tofu satay is delicious — satisfying skewers of pan-fried tofu marinated in curry powder and coconut milk, served with cucumber and peanut sauce. The fresh rolls are another worthwhile appetizer, Araya’s version of spring rolls stuffed full of crunchy, fragrant vegetables and fried tofu, with tamarind sauce and ground peanut for dipping. I would also recommend the spicy noodles and the drunken mushroom if you’re in a noodle mood. The spicy noodles are thin rice noodles with red hot chile pepper sauce and a mess of fried tofu and vegetables; the drunken mushroom features those wide soft rice noodles, stir-fried in garlic and chile with a lot of vegetables and meaty mushrooms.

Who’s at the next table? A group of three friends out for a casual weekday lunch. The two men are buff and grizzled with tattoos covering their arms. They would not be cast as vegans in a movie.

Appropriate for: Casual lunch or dinner near the Grove. Best for vegans, but great for everyone — a perfect spot for meals with friends of different dietary persuasions.

Uh-oh: $1 upcharge for rice, which always sends my eyes rolling. Selling curry without rice is like selling pants without a zipper.

Service: Very much on top of things. Staff is polite and knowledgeable, and food comes out fast.

What are you drinking? Thai iced tea with coconut milk, served in a giant glass. Strangely a little gritty, and I did miss the condensed milk.

Info: Araya’s Place, 8101 ½ Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 900-0557,www.arayasplace.com.