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When the season gives you cauliflower, roast, broil, grill and stir-fry it

Romanesco cauliflower at the Santa Monica farmers market.
(Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times )
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What’s in season: With colors ranging from pale orange to bright violet, even green, there’s a whole world of cauliflower to be found beyond the common white staple. Look for Romanesco cauliflower (also called Romanesco broccoli), a pale green variety originally from northern Italy and known for its spiraling, cone-shaped florets. The vegetable, a member of the cabbage family and close relative of broccoli, gets its name from the Latin caulis (“stalk”) and floris (“flower”). Cauliflower is generally in season through the winter months and into late spring.

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What to cook: Add raw or blanched florets to salads for added personality or sauté the cauliflower briefly, seasoning the florets with garlic or a dash of chile powder. Slice the head into thick wedges and grill or pan-fry as “steaks,” and serve over romesco sauce for a vegetarian main course. Slow, gentle cooking brings out cauliflower’s sweet notes, mellowing its flavor. Simmer the florets to use as a base for soups, roast florets on their own or with other winter vegetables for a rustic side or purée the vegetable with cream and butter to use as a low-carb version of mashed potatoes. Save the leaves from the vegetable, and sauté the assertive greens, serving them over polenta with a sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

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What’s on the horizon: Red-stemmed Russian, frilly flowering and dark Tuscan kale are showing up, along with dandelion greens.

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noelle.carter@latimes.com

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