Jonathan Gold restaurant review: Marugame Monzo

General manager Kenji Tateishi pulls back noodles formed by making multiple cuts across stretched-out dough.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

In the glassed-in kitchen, Kenji Tateishi, general manager at Marugame Monzo, shakes udon noodles so they don’t stick together.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

Kaori Hara, left, Yul Nuguchi and Miho Sako, visitng from Japan, have lunch at the Little Tokyo restaurant.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

The ikura oroshi udon is cold noodles with salmon roe and grated daikon radish.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

Sea urchin cream udon is one of the more creative noodle dishes offered.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

A great choice for an appetizer is the tempura-fried chicken skin, served with a ponzu sauce.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

The grilled chicken with soshi sauce, which includes grated ginger, is one of the best chicken dishes in Little Tokyo.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

Scallop carpaccio is made with Hokkaido scallop slices topped with flying fish roe.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

A rare sight is Marugame Monzo without a long line.   (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)