What gives the Manly Burger its manliness? Probably the bacon lardons. It’s also topped with cheddar cheese, fried onion strings and smoked salt. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
Umami Burger takes its name from the Japanese term used for the “fifth taste,” often described as “savory.” Japanese artworks decorate the restaurant. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
Israel Meca prepares beef patties in the kitchen. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
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The beef patties are prepared medium-rare. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
The sweet potato fries are restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila’s pick for the best of the three fry types at Umami. The other two are thick-cut and thinner versions of regular potato fries. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
Non-fry sides include the market salad, shown, tempura onion rings and house pickles. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
The basic Umami burger is topped with cheese, roasted tomatoes and mushrooms. This one came with stylishly stacked, thick, hand-cut fries. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)
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Japanese characters cover the blackboard, but don’t worry -- you won’t need to be able to read them to order. (Ringo H. W. Chiu / For The Times)