Acabar restaurant in Hollywood

Cauliflower with carrots.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Whole crispy sea bass, with choy sum, peanuts and Sichuan peppercorn sauce.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Beet Mosaic, made with cumin avocado, goat cheese, cress and pistachio tuiles.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Cube Tuna Tartare, made with blue fin tuna, red kuri squash and quail egg.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Charred octopus, served with a clam and chick pea vinaigrette and wild herb salad.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Porn bread, an oozing cylinder fortified with cheddar and bacon baked in a galvanized water pipe.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Acabar is a grand neo-Moroccan lounge-restaurant in the space long occupied by Dar Maghreb.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The bar and atrium at Acabar. The restaurant offers light, amusing food, well-enough prepared, in a fairly spectacular setting of Moorish arches, elaborate tile and good booze.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)