Jonathan Gold reviews Hanjip

Chef Chris Oh holds beer and a 48-ounce tomahawk steak at Hanjip, a Korean barbecue restaurant.   (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times )

A dish of beef combo and table setting with banchan (side dishes) at Hanjip.

Plain pork belly and table setting with banchan (side dishes) at Hanjip.

Chef Chris Oh, center right, talks to Michael Clarke and Jennifer Hwang, center left, both of Playa del Rey, while they eat at Hanjip.

Kimchi fried rice at Hanjip.

A dish of bone marrow corn cheese at Hanjip.   (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times )

Uni steamed egg at Hanjip.

Michael Clarke and Jennifer Hwang, both of Playa del Rey, cook brisket at a table at Hanjip.

Jennifer Hwang, of Playa del Rey, cooks brisket at her table at Hanjip.

Hanjip is an interesting addition to the tavern-heavy Culver City.