Photos: Wexler’s Deli in Grand Central Market

The O.G. Pastrami, $11, is made with thick, juicy pieces of pastrami smeared with mustard on rye bread specially baked for the deli.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Wexler’s Deli cook Geo Sandy cuts fresh pastrami. All the pastrami is made on site, a rarity for delis.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Bagels and spicy brown mustard are part of the decor at the small deli.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Wexler’s Deli, inside Grand Central Market in downtown L.A., is spare, with just 10 stools for customers to sit on. The small space is tightly designed to fit an array of coolers, giant smokers and the carving counter.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

An everything bagel, lox and cream cheese, for $10. Gold believes Wexler’s version is the best lox on a bagel in L.A.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Micah Wexler, chef and co-owner of Wexler’s Deli, cooked Middle Eastern food at Mezze before opening Wexler’s.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

The bare-bones menu at Wexler’s includes sides of coleslaw ($3), pickles ($2) and potato salad ($3).  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

The deli opened in the spring as part of Grand Central Market’s recent revitalization.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Geo Sandy cuts fresh pastrami. To make the pastrami, beef belly is cured, smeared with crumbly spice paste, smoked at a low temperature and then steamed.   (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

The menu of Wexler’s Deli has only one dessert (a black-and-white cookie) and is missing traditional deli staples like matzo ball soup.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

The neon sign of Wexler’s Deli fits right in at Grand Central Market.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Custom painting by L.A. artist Gregory Siff decorates tiled walls around Wexler’s Deli   (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

A company motto, imitating a popular rap lyric that names a different substance to smoke, decorates the T-shirt of Wexler’s Deli co-owner Michael Kassar.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)