A worker at The Fishery in Galt, Calif., throws a sturgeon into a live-fish delivery truck. The Central Valley aqua farm is one of a handful statewide catering to a unique niche: Californias Asian markets. Asian diners insist they can distinguish on the plate between a fish freshly plucked from a tank or stream and one previously gutted and languishing on ice.
(Robert Durell / Los Angeles Times)