Photographs of Adnan Walid’s famed goldsmith father adorn his shop in Baghdad’s Kadhimiya district, home to a key Shiite shrine. The jewelry sold in the Kadhimiya district is especially prized by Iraqi and Iranian Shiites, who consider it a blessing from the imams buried there. Before U.S.-led forces invaded in 2003, the shopkeepers say, as many as 3,000 Iranians visited every day, but now most pilgrims head to shrines in the relatively peaceful south. (Caesar Ahmed / Los Angeles Times)