Big-eye tuna tartare
Tuna tartare may be the single most popular dish at L.A. restaurants for the last five years running. But most versions around town are so anonymous they’re forgotten before they’re finished.
Not at Water Grill. First of all, the quality of the tuna is superb. It’s hand-cut, so that each glistening piece remains distinct. Seafood wizard Michael Cimarusti piles the glistening red cubes on a base of smashed avocado, the better to contrast fat with lean, and dresses it with a bracing green peppercorn vinaigrette. Because his touch is so light, the dressing lets the flavor of Pacific big-eye tuna shine through. Wearing a flouncy skirt of thinly sliced radishes, this tuna tartare has become one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. It doesn’t take a genius to figure out why.
Avocado relish
Mash the avocado flesh with the tines of a fork and add the lemon juice. Add the onion and chives. Add the oil in a stream, stirring to blend. Add the salt and pepper to taste.
Green peppercorn dressing
Place the peppercorns, their juice, the mustard and the lemon juice in a blender. Add salt and pepper to taste. Blend at low speed for 30 seconds. Add the oil in a slow stream, blending on high speed. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper.
Assembly
Slice the radishes as thinly as possible, using a mandoline if you have one.
Make a ring with the radishes in the center of each of 4 chilled plates. Place a 2 1/2 inch-diameter ring mold in the center of each ring of radishes. Divide the avocado relish among the molds; it should not be more than one-half-inch tall.
Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Add the green peppercorn dressing to taste, about 1 1/2 tablespoons. Add the chives and onion. Mix well. Adjust the seasoning. Divide the tuna among the 4 molds and smooth the tops. Remove the molds. Dress the greens very lightly with about 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Place the greens decoratively over the tuna. Drizzle the remaining dressing around the plates. Serve immediately.
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