Rashida Holmes' Macaroni And Cheese Pie
A few key components differentiate the macaroni and cheese pie that chef Rashida Holmes serves at Bridgetown Roti, the vibrant Caribbean restaurant in East Hollywood that she owns with her mother, Joy Clarke-Holmes, and business partner Malique Smith, from the versions that are common on Thanksgiving dinner spreads.
It’s not just the standard cheddar cheese that gives this macaroni and cheese its rustic golden hue but curry powder, which adds a welcome zing of spicy sweetness to the finished pie.
Instead of macaroni noodles, Holmes prefers fusilli, which allows the cheesy mixture to seep into every crevice as it bakes. In addition to standard cheddar and Jack cheeses, the five-cheese pie calls for pepper jack for heat, Gouda for creaminess and Parmesan for saltiness. But according to Holmes, it’s fresh thyme, a staple herb in the Caribbean culinary lexicon, that makes the entire dish.
A Thanksgiving menu that celebrates Black traditions spans the Caribbean and East Africa, with plenty of local influence.
“It adds freshness and it’s almost on the minty side, but thyme is completely unique versus other herbs. I think it brings out the flavor of the cheese,” she said.
The pie comes out of the oven with a crispy top and gooey center that yields an epic cheese pull when you slice into it hot. No wonder the macaroni and cheese has quickly become one of Bridgetown Roti’s most popular dishes.
Note: You can make the macaroni and cheese (up until baking) and store covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Set a pot of salted pasta water to boil.
Mix all shredded cheeses together in a medium bowl. Once mixed, separate the cheese mixture into two equal portions and set aside.
In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low-medium heat, about 3 minutes. Stir in the minced onion, garlic and thyme leaves. Let that come to a bubble, turn off the heat, then stir in the salt, curry powder and pepper. Taste it for yumminess, set aside.
Boil the pasta until al dente, according to package directions. Some say 8 minutes, some say 9 minutes, but you want it al dente. Once cooked, strain the pasta and run under cold water to stop the cooking process. Once the pasta is cool, mix the pasta with the butter mixture in a large bowl. Set aside.
In a separate bowl, whisk together your eggs and evaporated milk. Combine half your cheese mixture into the milk and egg mixture.
Add your buttered pasta mixture to the cheese, milk and egg mixture and mix well to combine, so that the pasta is fully coated. It will be wet but not drowning. As the cheese melts into it during baking, you’ll get a nice saucy, glazed pasta.
In an 8-inch cake pan or standard casserole pan lined with parchment, add half of the pasta mixture in an even layer, pressing it into the dish with a spatula. Then put an even layer of the remaining cheese-only mixture on top, again pushing down as you go. Repeat with the remaining pasta mixture and cheese mixture. Pile on the cheese mixture, using as much as you can; you might have a little leftover. Place the entire dish on a foil-lined baking sheet (so that it catches any spillage) and bake in the oven until the eggs are set and the crust is browned, about 30 to 40 minutes. Turn to broil for the last 5 minutes for a dark brown crust. Let cool to just above room temperature before serving.
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