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Kiano Moju's Swahili Lamb Biriyani

Time 2 hours
Yields Serves 4 to 6
Swahili chicken biriyani and sukuma wiki (collard greens) and samosas
(Jason Armond/Los Angeles Times)
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This Swahili-style biriyani reflects the influences of Arab traders who settled along the Swahili coast, resulting in a host of dishes with slightly different preparations and flavors from their international counterparts.

Instead of a mixed rice dish, the Swahili version of biriyani is sauce-driven, featuring a rich gravy with velvety chunks of lamb cascading over colorfully fragrant basmati rice. Kiano Moju makes the recipe with chicken in her “AfriCali” cookbook, but when making this dish for the holidays or a special occasion, Moju prefers to use lamb.

A Thanksgiving menu that celebrates Black traditions spans the Caribbean and East Africa, with plenty of local influence.

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Swahili Lamb Biriyani

Lamb biriyani
1

Whisk together the yogurt, Ginger Garlic Paste, Butcher’s Masala, lemon juice and 2 teaspoons salt. Cut the lamb into 2-inch chunks, toss in the marinade and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes or overnight in the refrigerator.

2

Thinly slice the shallots and chili peppers (remove the seeds for a milder flavor). Dice the tomatoes. Roughly chop the cilantro (leaves and stems).

3

Fill a medium pot with 1 inch of oil and heat over medium-high heat. Prepare a plate lined with paper towels and set beside the stove. Once the oil is hot, add the shallots and cook, constantly stirring, until crispy and golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the shallots and place on the paper towel–lined plate to drain, seasoning with salt to taste. Reserve the oil in a heatproof container.

4

Heat ¼ cup of the reserved shallot oil in a wide braising dish or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently, until darkened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add half the sliced chiles and all the diced tomatoes. Cover with a lid and cook until the tomatoes have broken down, 8 to 12 minutes. Add the marinated lamb and half the fried shallots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the lamb has cooked and the sauce thickens, about 1 hour and 40 minutes. If needed, remove the lid to let the sauce thicken further.

5

While the lamb is simmering, cook the rice. In a fine mesh strainer or a large bowl, wash the rice under cold water until the water runs nearly clear. This step may need to be repeated two or more times until the water is mostly clear. Transfer the washed and drained rice to a medium pot (you can use the same pot as the shallots). Add 3 cups water, the cardamom pods and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer, partially cover and cook until all the water has been absorbed, 12 to 15 minutes. Mix the saffron with 2 tablespoons of hot water. Once the water has been absorbed by the rice, pour the saffron water over the top, cover and let steam for 10 minutes before fluffing with a fork.

6

To serve family-style, create a base layer of rice on a large serving platter. Spoon the lamb into the center. Top with the reserved fried shallots and sliced chiles.

Garlic Ginger Paste

1

Leaving the skin on, chop the ginger into ½-inch pieces.

2

Pulse the chopped ginger, garlic and salt in a food processor until smooth. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Butcher's Masala

1

Combine the cumin, coriander, paprika, black pepper, turmeric, cardamom, salt and cinnamon in a small airtight container, making sure to mix well.

2

Cover and store in a cool, dry place.

From “AfriCali” by Kiano Moju, published by Simon Element.