Photos: The Bazaar by José Andrés at the SLS Hotel

The Times’ restaurant critic, S. Irene Virbila, says Los Angeles has never seen anything remotely like the Bazaar, an exciting restaurant from celebrated Spanish chef José Andrés at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills.
The unique interior of the restaurant, which fills the hotel’s first floor and is designed by Philippe Starck, is matched by Andres’ creative and adventurous cuisine. Virbila gives it four stars — a rare ranking. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Michael Voltaggio, right, prepares “Philly cheesesteak” tapas, the Bazaar’s most popular item. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
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Chunks of watermelon are topped with the seeds and insides of tomato and a dash of Pedro Ximénez reduction. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

One must-order item: The Philly cheesesteak, a torpedo-shaped roll thats really just a thin shell of crust (Jose Andres calls it air bread) topped with thin slices of seared Kobe beef, with a wisp of cheese inside. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
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
The best seats in the house are in the traditional Rojo tapas bar, with a view of the kitchen. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
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Among Philippe Starck’s touches at Bar Centro inside the Bazaar: mini TVs that play

Lights and glass panels adorn the bar at the Bazaar. Service The wine list has some terrific Spanish wines by the glass and by the bottle. Note that you have to ask for the full wine list. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)