Lindsay Jackson stands by the entrance to the Range, a steakhouse in wine country just north of San Louis Obispo. her husband, Jeff Jackson, is the chef. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Jeff Jackson in the kitchen at the Range steakhouse. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Co-owner Lindsay Jackson takes orders at the Range, where the casual, longhorn theme attracts a local crowd. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Curried cauliflower bisque with a pistachio brown butter. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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Garden salad with organic baby greens, garden vegetables, pine nuts and aged balsamic. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Crawfish cakes with pickled okra and Tabasco butter. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Steak with red eye sauce. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Pizzette with caramelized onions. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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Lemon pound cake with vanilla bean ice cream, berries and raspberry coulis. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
The steakhouse has a nostalgic vibe. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
The Range is off the beaten path and about as far from the “Sideways” hustle and hype as you can get, wonderfully low-key and unglitzy for a wine-country restaurant. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
