Change on horizon

The sun sets serenely beyond Old Kino pier and Alcatraz Island in the distance.  (Susan Spano / LAT)

Guide Ernesto Molina and his wife in Punta Chueca, where Seris make a living selling crafts and licenses to hunt bighorn sheep.  (Susan Spano / LAT)

Cactus and scrub brush thrive in the Sonoran Desert on the eastern side of the Gulf of California.  (Susan Spano / LAT)

A guide and hiker check out Tiburon, an island wildlife refuge where native Seris came in the mid-1800s after escaping a Mexican ghetto.  (Susan Spano / LAT)