9 under-the-radar things to do in Avalon, the iconic Catalina Island town
In the center of Catalina Island is Bishop’s Chapel at El Rancho Escondido. From its coastal perch, the small adobe building is alone with scrub-covered hills that look as if they are rolling into the distant rugged shoreline. The blue sky above is mirrored in a vast stretch of ocean. This could be a scene from rural Spain or Italy, and if it were springtime, the green isle of Ireland. But this is, by technical definition, greater Los Angeles. Those basking in the scenery — including myself — can’t quite believe it.
Visiting the recently renovated ranch is one of the many new and under the radar experiences around Avalon, Catalina’s largest town with just over 3,000 people. If you haven’t made a trip in a while, it’s time for a reintroduction.
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This little getaway across the channel has been attracting visitors for over a century. Longtime Avalon resident and musician Vern Altieri found his place in this community after living in Malibu for 20 years. He explains, ”There’s no traffic light. There’s no traffic. There’s one store for shopping and just one gas station. It’s just one mile square and people come here from all over the world for a good time. I love it.”
With strands of hair framing his face, he lights up to talk about his music, which he played every Friday night at the Marlin Club (Avalon’s oldest bar) prior to the pandemic with his classic rock band, the CIA. Whether intentional or not, the name, which stands for the Catalina Island Allstars, is a sly nod to the Central Intelligence Agency, which has early roots on the island.
In fact, Avalon is a formative place for many, including celebrities, industries and new ideas. Ronald “Dutch” Reagan came to the island as a young radio announcer for the Chicago Cubs and Norma Jean Dougherty lived in Avalon for a time, before she became known as Marilyn Monroe. The island’s remote location also spurred innovation in radio and wireless technology, its South Seas look attracting early Hollywood films and the Catalina Casino housing the world’s first theater made for talkies. And the growth of Avalon’s hospitality scene brought about Southern California’s first golf course and helped to introduce the world’s first successful glass bottom boat.
The Wrigley family, of chewing gum fame, was instrumental in much of this development. Heirs are still deeply involved in the Catalina Island Company, which runs many of the island’s hotels, restaurants and adventure activities. Whether it was the manufacturing of Catalina tile, bringing the Chicago Cubs team in for spring training or the development of its buildings and early adventure touring, William Wrigley, Jr. had his hand in just about everything.
As a wealthy magnate, Wrigley could have gone just about anywhere in the world. But, as his great grandson-in-law, Geoff Rusack, told me, “If you were to spin the globe and put a pin on the best place to be, Avalon would likely be it.”
With its temperate climate, proximity to Los Angeles, quaint European feel and world-class location for adventure and water sports, this is a hard premise to argue.
Tips for visiting Catalina:
Book your trip early. Resort towns tend to run on a seasonal schedule, and Avalon is no different. Summertime is peak season, and weekends, as expected, can get booked out quickly, including the Catalina Express, which offers daily departures from Dana Point, Long Beach and San Pedro.
Decide how you’ll get around town. Golf carts have long been a fun go-to mode of transport, and an activity in itself. But you can also book the city’s all-electric public transportation system called COAST, which works like an on-demand ride share for $2 per person per ride on the Ride Circuit app. It’s highly affordable, efficient and doesn’t make you feel rushed at far-flung attractions to get back to town before your rental period is over.
Several off-the-beaten-path businesses have complimentary shuttle service, like the family-owned local favorite, Buffalo Nickel restaurant, where you can eat a buffalo burger or sip on a buffalo milk cocktail under the gaze of a stuffed bison. (Yes, wild bison roam the island.)
To get some cultural context, start with the Catalina Museum for Art and History. Upon arrival to a new destination, some travelers head straight to the local museum. On Catalina, this is a great travel hack, given the island’s extraordinarily rich history.
Immerse yourself in the story of the island at the Catalina Museum for Art and History
The museum aims to reach both visitors and the island’s diverse population, including its significant Hispanic community, through community outreach and events. For artist Sonia Romero, currently preparing for a spring 2025 show, the allure of Avalon’s romance and glamour brings her back to her 1990s upbringing in Echo Park, when a resurgence of Hollywood’s Golden Age commingled with Latinx aesthetics. “I love the whole romance of Catalina and my upcoming show explores both its glamorous aspects and the reality of living on the island.”
The History Hall is the permanent heart of the museum where you can go deeper on every aspect in the film and more — from the stories of spring training to historic photographs of Old Ben, the portly sea lion immortalized in sculpture upon entrance to town.
Beyond history, the museum showcases wide ranging art exhibitions and hosts excellent community events aimed at local residents and visitors alike, including Dia de los Muertos, the Silent Film Showcase, First Fridays: Mixology at the Museum nights and music concerts.
A handful of free tickets are offered daily to visitors who take a survey about their experience at the museum. If you hope to snag one, plan to arrive early in the day (the museum opens at 10 a.m.) and inquire at the front desk.
Explore equestrian history at El Rancho Escondido
The three-and-a-half hour tour begins in Avalon on an island icon, a 1950s-era Flxible bus, which winds through the island’s hilly chaparral (keep a look out for roaming American bison.) The destination is a restored Spanish Colonial Revival-style ranch compound with 1930s-era courtyard stables, equestrian riding ring and original home of Philip and Helen Wrigley. Their granddaughter, Alison Wrigley Rusack, and her husband Geoff Rusack, oversaw a 10-year restoration of the historic buildings, adding a barn and family chapel. Prior to this, they planted a 5-acre vineyard in 2007, which saw its first harvest in 2009.
The stunning setting — with an especially memorable ocean view from Bishop’s Chapel — is reason enough to see El Rancho Escondido, but the real draw here are the horses. The rare chance to get up close to several Arabians and their trainers for an intimate training performance is special. The Saddle and Trophy Room, which features historic photos, stories and Western memorabilia, provides just the context you need to appreciate the enormity of the horse history here.
Tours to El Rancho Escondido are offered year-round on a seasonal schedule of Thursdays and Saturdays at 10 a.m. Tickets are available for $179 on the Catalina Island Company website.
Get your casual Mexican fix at the Sandtrap
A respite from downtown crowds and a godsend for campers at Hermit Gulch, the Sandtrap has been a local fixture for decades. The Sandtrap menu only lists breakfast and lunch options, but the restaurant and bar is known for its happy hour, where $2 tacos and cheap drinks are served from 2 to 6 p.m. (until 7 p.m. in summer months). The huevos rancheros, chile verde burrito and Sandtrapper #2 (grilled turkey and Swiss sandwich) are house favorites. For your meat option, think carnitas.
For Trisha Cole, a longtime island visitor from Los Angeles, the Sandtrap is built into every Avalon visit. “One of our favorite things to do is get up and hike to the Wrigley Memorial and pay our respects to William Wrigley,” she says. “On the way back down we always stop at the Sandtrap, either for huevos rancheros, or, if it’s later in the day, tacos and a cold beer. It never disappoints.” Cole mentions the Sandtrap and other Avalon favorites in her new book “Life at the Dumpling.”
Dive into a world of beauty under the sea during snorkel season
Thanks to a thriving kelp forest, Casino Point Dive Park is a favorite, which, along with Lover’s Cove, is one of two State Marine Protected Areas in town.
“The dive park is a great place to snorkel for us because it’s super accessible right there in the heart of Avalon,” explained Daniel Truax, director of the junior lifeguard program of Los Angeles County, in Avalon on a day trip for the program. “There are steps going into the water and lots of terrain features like rocky reefs and kelp forests right off the shore, so it’s great for the inexperienced to get exposed to the magic of the Catalina kelp forests. It’s why we choose to do our dive trip here.”
Between swaying kelp and shimmering scuba bubbles, look for vibrant orange garibaldi (California’s state fish), bat rays, harbor seals, walleye, opaleye and, if you are lucky, giant black sea bass, which can weigh between 200 and 400 pounds.
Catalina Divers Supply runs a convenient location in the adjacent Catalina Casino building for guided snorkel tours ($65 per person), rentals (from $9) and gear for purchase.
Younger snorkelers may prefer the more shallow waters at Descanso Beach. A kiosk there offers fins, snorkel and mask for $15 an hour.
Create your own clay tile art at Silver Canyon Pottery
The activity is the brainchild of Avalon-based tile artist, Robin Cassidy, whose simple, stylistic tile art is sold as souvenirs in boutiques, and seen in the much of Avalon’s downtown area as restoration work. Cassidy takes groups up to 12 into her second story open-air shipping container studio to teach about the history of Catalina Island and its tile and walks participants through the process to create their own work of art.
First, participants pick out a design and color scheme for the two tiles they will create. Many motifs mimic the original tile designs in downtown Avalon, including flowers, geometric designs and mythical creatures. After placing the clay into chosen molds, the tiles are dried, fired and glazed before they are sent to your home about three weeks later.
Cassidy thrives on showing others the craft. “It is such a joy to share the story of Catalina and see how much fun people have making their own piece of Catalina,” she says.
The studio is located in the industrial sector of Avalon, about a mile from the center of town, in the same area the original tile factory was located. Round-trip transportation is included in the fee.
Zigzag across Descanso Canyon by zip line
Zipping across the chaparral covered canyon floor, you’ll make your way through five stations, each of which is part of a distinct zip line with its own speed, height, feel and view. Each platform allows riders to take a breather and soak in the unparalleled views. Tour guides also use the opportunity to introduce natural and cultural histories, including many of the endemic species of the island, encompassing 60 plants and animals not found anywhere else in the world.
Age and weight requirements for this tour are strict and each participant is weighed prior to launching, so pay close attention to the fine print before booking. Children must be at least 5 years of age to participate (in tandem with an adult) and 10 years of age and 80 pounds to ride on their own.
The Zip Line Tour Center is located behind the Descanso Beach Club. Make sure to leave at least 15 to 20 minutes prior to your reserved time when leaving from the middle of town. Reservations are highly recommended.
Try a buffalo milk cocktail at Descanso Beach Club — and other beloved drinks around town
The latter would easily win the crowning of Catalina Island’s official drink, created in Two Harbors at the Harbor Reef Restaurant bar in the 1970s. The drink pays homage to the century-old herd of free-roaming American bison brought to the island for the making of an early Hollywood film. The boozy concoction could be described as a tropical white Russian, made with creme de banana, creme de cacao, Kahlúa, vodka and half-and-half, milk or ice cream, topped with whipped cream and nutmeg.
The ice cream shake-inspired version at Descanso Beach Club (marked on this map) — which you can drink with your toes in the sand — is easily considered one of the best ($16 to $38). Head to Avalon Grille for a buffalo milk made with vanilla ice cream ($18), or Luau Larry’s for one made with fresh bananas.
For a taste of Catalina Island’s terroir, Rusack Catalina Island Chardonnay is made from grapes grown at El Rancho Escondido. Limited production means its availability can be spotty, but Austin Rusack, of Rusack Vineyards, suggests trying the Avalon Grille for a glass ($40) or the El Galleon Bar, Bluewater Grill or the local Avalon Vons for bottles, ranging from $88 to $140.
“Catalina wines tend to be a little more elegant, lighter and nuanced than the mainland wines,” says Rusack. “It’s really an incredible growing area, we’ve been really amazed. Ultimately, we get fantastic fruit from the island.”
Take in Art Deco splendor at the Catalina Casino
In the summer of 2022, Wesley Alfvin reopened the Avalon Theatre for movie screenings as a way to provide more access to this architectural gem. This experience inspired him to approach the Catalina Island Company with a plan to activate the rest of the casino. “As someone from the world of entertainment, I wanted to give guests the opportunity to step back in time to experience the Golden Age of Hollywood and the Big Band era,” Alfvin explains.
Now, as creative director of the organization, he is making these ideas a reality through daytime tours (from $17.50) and evening events — a boon for visitors who itch to see the magnificence inside. From the expansive harbor views from the Ocean Promenade to the Wrigley Ballroom’s arching 50-foot ceiling crowned by Tiffany-esque chandeliers, no other Avalon landmark matches its romantic allure.
For a taste of its nightlife, check out “Summer Nights in the Wrigley Ballroom” to groove on tunes and nosh on snacks from the Ball Room Bar. This family friendly event runs from 6 to 11 p.m. most Friday and Saturday nights through September 22 ($10.50 per person). Or catch a film at the Avalon Theatre surrounded by movie palace elegance and soaring Art Deco murals. Tickets are $16.50.
Conquer two Avalon hills — by foot, bike or taxi — for extraordinary views
To the north is Catalina Chimes Tower (marked on this map). With its 1925-era Spanish Revival Tower framing colorful buildings below and rows of boats lining the crescent shaped bay, it is easy to understand the comparisons to Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Every quarter hour the chimes ring their bells, just shy of the 20-25 minutes it takes to wind your way up by foot from downtown. Across the street you’ll see the Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel, the former home of the bestselling author.
To the south are the Buena Vista and Three Palms Scenic Overlooks, both located on Wrigley Road leading to Mt. Ada, the former home of William Wrigley, Jr. and his wife, Ada. A curve in the road leads to stairs and a brick lined walkway out to a scenic spot for views to the sprawling ocean, Avalon Bay and the Catalina Casino.
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