Enchanted Forest is a theme park nestled in the trees of Salem, Ore., about an hour’s drive south of Portland.
(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
12 kid-friendly things to do around Portland, like meet robots and zip-line from trees
In deciding where to take a family vacation this summer, I had a few criteria. I wanted to be in nature, preferably among trees. I also craved some city charms — cool restaurants, quirky shops, interesting art and fun spots to entertain my two kids, ages 4 and 10. And due to my husband’s work schedule and some timing constraints, I preferred for us to stay on the West Coast, or someplace within a three-hour-flight radius from L.A.
This checklist led us to Portland, Ore., and we’re so happy it did.
My only encounter with the city had been decades ago when my college friends and I made a quick stop after a road trip up the Oregon coast. I remember eating at a veggie-focused restaurant and not much else. This time around, with the Subaru Crosstrek that our Portland friend let us borrow for the week, I was able to really explore the different neighborhoods, from quirky Hawthorne and sophisticated Nob Hill to vibrant Mississippi. (The constant observation from this family of coastal Angelenos: “It’s all so green!”)
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Portland, it turns out, is quite the kid-friendly place. Just about every destination we visited not only welcomed children but actively worked to make their experience more magical: Corners of restaurants were stocked with toys and picture books, and our hotel lobby had “Bluey” on repeat. We also were able to take some worthwhile excursions just outside the city — to a fish hatchery, a wondrous waterfall and a theme park in a forest on a hill.
Here’s a list of things to do around Portland with kids — delightful experiences that earned a seal of approval from my own young travelers. This guide is hardly exhaustive, of course. While we packed a lot into our short trip, I was bummed to miss some cool family events — Americana music nights at Topaz Farm, the state’s largest sunflower festival and Pedalpalooza bike rides — which are all still happening this summer in case you’re able to make a trip.
For us, it will have to be next time. Luckily we all agree: There absolutely will be a next time.
Showing Places
(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Check out the shelves of real-kid recs at Powell's City of Books
Bookstore
Don’t be intimidated by the sheer size of Powell’s City of Books, the bookstore behemoth occupying an entire city block in Portland’s Pearl District. Somehow, once you choose one of the nine color-coded rooms to enter and begin perusing, the shop starts to feel cozy and personal. That’s because the staff puts a tremendous amount of thoughtfulness into its displays. You’ll find their handwritten notes about select books on just about every shelf.
In the children’s room (a.k.a. the rose room), I loved browsing the book recommendation cards written by real kid visitors: “This book inspired me to stand up for what I believe in,” wrote Milo, age 11, of Maggie Horne’s “Hazel Hill Is Gonna Win This One.” Of Lauren Tarshis’ “I Survived the Sinking of the Titanic, 1912,” 8-year-old Harper wrote, “It is educational. It tells what happened. If you like facts and other stuff like this, this book is for you.” The space itself was filled with parents sitting at miniature tables and reading to their kids — a practice that seems to be welcomed.
In the children’s room (a.k.a. the rose room), I loved browsing the book recommendation cards written by real kid visitors: “This book inspired me to stand up for what I believe in,” wrote Milo, age 11, of Maggie Horne’s “Hazel Hill Is Gonna Win This One.” Of Lauren Tarshis’ “I Survived the Sinking of the Titanic, 1912,” 8-year-old Harper wrote, “It is educational. It tells what happened. If you like facts and other stuff like this, this book is for you.” The space itself was filled with parents sitting at miniature tables and reading to their kids — a practice that seems to be welcomed.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Avoid detention at McMenamins Kennedy School
Historic Hotel
Yes, you should put “wander around an old elementary school” on your Portland itinerary. A hotel, historic landmark and delightfully quirky attraction all in one, McMenamins Kennedy School retains the most magical elements from the days when students walked its halls starting in 1915. Some guest rooms were formerly classrooms (you’ll find original chalkboards on the walls). And throughout the space, there are kid-sized water fountains, cloakrooms and archival images (like yearbook photos donated by actual former students).
But the place also now has a cool, swanky vibe, thanks to locally renowned owner-renovator McMenamins, which added restaurants, bars, a brewery and a soaking pool and converted the auditorium into a living-room-like movie theater. When we were there, the logos for the two movies playing, “The Little Mermaid” and “Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3,” were hand-drawn on the chalkboard — such detail and care!
Various community events are held at the Kennedy School weekly (for kids, there was recently a Wizarding Weekend in honor of Harry Potter’s birthday). It’s free to explore the 4-acre grounds. An hour in the soaking pool is $10 for non-guest adults and $5 for kids. Advance reservations are required.
But the place also now has a cool, swanky vibe, thanks to locally renowned owner-renovator McMenamins, which added restaurants, bars, a brewery and a soaking pool and converted the auditorium into a living-room-like movie theater. When we were there, the logos for the two movies playing, “The Little Mermaid” and “Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3,” were hand-drawn on the chalkboard — such detail and care!
Various community events are held at the Kennedy School weekly (for kids, there was recently a Wizarding Weekend in honor of Harry Potter’s birthday). It’s free to explore the 4-acre grounds. An hour in the soaking pool is $10 for non-guest adults and $5 for kids. Advance reservations are required.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Live your fairy-tale dreams (and a few nightmares) at Enchanted Forest
Amusement park
At Enchanted Forest, a theme park nestled in the trees of Salem, Ore., you’ll likely come across two types of people: first-time visitors (like me) and Oregon natives obsessed with the place (they’ll tell you about their childhood visits and how they worked there in high school and that they now bring their own kids whenever they can). It’s easy to understand their zeal. The park is delightful. Created in the 1960s by Roger Tofte, who bought 20 acres of land for $4,000 and filled them with storybook figures and charming little buildings, Enchanted Forest feels like a fairy tale that’s come to life. Kids can slide out of a giant shoe, walk into a witch’s mouth and crawl through the rabbit hole from “Alice in Wonderland.” Most rides are geared for younger children, but there are a handful of big-kid and adult attractions, including a Matterhorn-like bobsled roller coaster, a log ride that gets you drenched (ponchos are sold for $1) and a legitimately scary haunted house.
Over the course of several hours, your legs will remind you that the park was built on a hill. That must be why one of my favorite moments of the day was sitting in the outdoor theater and watching “Snow White and the Seven Dorks,” a family-friendly musical production that weaves in some laugh-out-loud grown-up humor.
Admission to Enchanted Forest is $25 for adults, $22 for kids. There’s a small discount if you purchase admission online ahead of time. Ride tickets cost extra. (We ended up paying about $40 per person and got to do everything we wanted to do — not terrible considering the ticket prices for California theme parks.)
Over the course of several hours, your legs will remind you that the park was built on a hill. That must be why one of my favorite moments of the day was sitting in the outdoor theater and watching “Snow White and the Seven Dorks,” a family-friendly musical production that weaves in some laugh-out-loud grown-up humor.
Admission to Enchanted Forest is $25 for adults, $22 for kids. There’s a small discount if you purchase admission online ahead of time. Ride tickets cost extra. (We ended up paying about $40 per person and got to do everything we wanted to do — not terrible considering the ticket prices for California theme parks.)
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Look for droids in Robot Alley
Public Art
High on the list of experiences that feel “so Portland” is a stroll through Robot Alley, a literal alley off Skidmore Street where passersby can meet (and be playfully heckled by) Stormtroopers, droids and other Star Wars characters. They exist along the backyard wall of artist Robert Fortney, who created the elaborate interactive installation years ago as a DIY security system. While it still keeps watch over the area (there’s a live webcam stream of Robot Alley on Fortney’s website), it’s become a popular local attraction — show up between the hours of 10 a.m. and 10 p.m. and you can press buttons, turn dials, flip switches and peer through holes to activate some hilarious surprises. Note: You may get wet.
The alley is worth a quick visit — or revisit, as Fortney is constantly upgrading this labor of love and geekiness. One of the latest upgrades for version 23: a retinal scanner that sets off a probe droid. Who knows what’s next for v.24?
The alley is worth a quick visit — or revisit, as Fortney is constantly upgrading this labor of love and geekiness. One of the latest upgrades for version 23: a retinal scanner that sets off a probe droid. Who knows what’s next for v.24?
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Reach new heights at Tree to Tree Aerial Adventure Park
Experience
When in Oregon, embrace the trees — by climbing up, zip-lining down and tightroping across them. Our day at Tree to Tree Adventure Park, an obstacle-course oasis about 35 miles west of Portland, is the one we keep talking about (and showing pictures of to any unsuspecting friend who’ll graciously scroll through them).
At the park, there are a number of different adventures to choose from — my 10-year-old daughter and I took on the series of aerial obstacle courses. After putting on our harnesses and receiving a too-brief training on how to use the belay system (it’s all very safe, just a bit confusing at first), we were off, free to maneuver our bodies along ropes, wobbly bridges and balance beams high above ground. (“Don’t look down,” was the mantra I kept repeating in my head.) Meanwhile, my 4-year-old son happily played in the “monkey grove.” Attached to an auto-belay device (and supervised by my husband), he’d climb a tree using rock holds and then jump down, over and over.
Throughout the four-hour experience, I activated muscles that had been dormant for years, and while I could barely muster the strength to open the car door at the end of the day, I left feeling blissful and accomplished.
The aerial obstacle course is $63 for adults and $53 for kids ages 7 to 9. Tree to Tree also offers a zip-line-only experience that’s less physically demanding. No matter the option you choose, I’d recommend booking a time slot as early in the day as possible, packing snacks and downloading your map before your drive (there’s no cell reception for many miles).
At the park, there are a number of different adventures to choose from — my 10-year-old daughter and I took on the series of aerial obstacle courses. After putting on our harnesses and receiving a too-brief training on how to use the belay system (it’s all very safe, just a bit confusing at first), we were off, free to maneuver our bodies along ropes, wobbly bridges and balance beams high above ground. (“Don’t look down,” was the mantra I kept repeating in my head.) Meanwhile, my 4-year-old son happily played in the “monkey grove.” Attached to an auto-belay device (and supervised by my husband), he’d climb a tree using rock holds and then jump down, over and over.
Throughout the four-hour experience, I activated muscles that had been dormant for years, and while I could barely muster the strength to open the car door at the end of the day, I left feeling blissful and accomplished.
The aerial obstacle course is $63 for adults and $53 for kids ages 7 to 9. Tree to Tree also offers a zip-line-only experience that’s less physically demanding. No matter the option you choose, I’d recommend booking a time slot as early in the day as possible, packing snacks and downloading your map before your drive (there’s no cell reception for many miles).
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times )
Satisfy all tastebuds at one of Portland's many food truck pods
Dining
If deliberating with your family on what to eat prompts a clashing of opinions, opt for a food truck pod. Portland has a ton of them. During our trip, we made it to Cartopia (home to the Latin-style staple Chicken and Guns), Hawthorne Asylum (where I had excellent boba and Thai drunken noodles) and Prost Marketplace (which is marked on this map and features longtime Portland favorite Matt’s BBQ).
Of those three, Hawthorne Asylum had the best seating options for families — the long tables in shade suited my wiggly and sweaty kids — but all were lively and offered enough choices and flavors to satisfy any type of craving. On a future visit, I’ll need to stop by St. John’s Food Carts, which is anchored by the ultra-cozy Beer Porch that serves craft beer, hard cider and kombucha on tap. Note that each food truck or cart within a pod typically has its own hours, so check before you go.
Of those three, Hawthorne Asylum had the best seating options for families — the long tables in shade suited my wiggly and sweaty kids — but all were lively and offered enough choices and flavors to satisfy any type of craving. On a future visit, I’ll need to stop by St. John’s Food Carts, which is anchored by the ultra-cozy Beer Porch that serves craft beer, hard cider and kombucha on tap. Note that each food truck or cart within a pod typically has its own hours, so check before you go.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Jump into art — literally — at Hopscotch Portland
Art
The best way to experience Hopscotch is simply to book a time slot, show up at the address and then go with it. Like when you look up the plot twists on Wikipedia before watching a movie (ahem, my husband, every time), knowing too many details spoils the fun. But I’ll share a few.
It’s an immersive art wonderland made up of a series of rooms, each conceptualized by a different artist. They’re all wildly imaginative: “Quantum Trampoline” makes you feel like you’re jumping into “Avatar’s” Pandora. “VJ Yourself” is like a high-tech magic mirror, allowing you to dance with versions of yourself from the split-second-ago past. “Laser Graffiti” lets you tag up a room, sans the mess and vandalism charges.
My favorite installation was “Secret Garden,” which invites guests to stand under floating treetops in the dark and listen to the recorded confessions of real people. The messages were raw and meaningful — I found myself tearing up as I tried to imagine who was speaking. (There’s also a child-sized treetop that plays kid confessions. It’s very cute.) In the corner of the room is a small phone booth where anyone can record a secret anonymously.
Hopscotch tickets are $24 for adults and $15 for kids. Kids are only allowed to attend before 5:45 p.m., and there are a limited number of children’s tickets available.
It’s an immersive art wonderland made up of a series of rooms, each conceptualized by a different artist. They’re all wildly imaginative: “Quantum Trampoline” makes you feel like you’re jumping into “Avatar’s” Pandora. “VJ Yourself” is like a high-tech magic mirror, allowing you to dance with versions of yourself from the split-second-ago past. “Laser Graffiti” lets you tag up a room, sans the mess and vandalism charges.
My favorite installation was “Secret Garden,” which invites guests to stand under floating treetops in the dark and listen to the recorded confessions of real people. The messages were raw and meaningful — I found myself tearing up as I tried to imagine who was speaking. (There’s also a child-sized treetop that plays kid confessions. It’s very cute.) In the corner of the room is a small phone booth where anyone can record a secret anonymously.
Hopscotch tickets are $24 for adults and $15 for kids. Kids are only allowed to attend before 5:45 p.m., and there are a limited number of children’s tickets available.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Make art from recycled materials at the Craft Factory
Craft Space
On every family trip, I like to look for a spot where the kids can have some quiet time, allowing their tired parents to zone out for a while. In Portland, I found the Craft Factory, a cheery art space on North Williams Avenue.
During open studio hours, the process is simple: Little makers drop in, choose a base (a flat slab of wood cut into a star, cupcake, crown or other shape) and then fill a bucket with recycled bits and doodads displayed in compartments around the room. Colorful buttons, old blocks, dried flowers, pieces of fabric, bottle caps, stacks of paint color chips — everything is up for grabs. Then, once they have a sufficient stash, they get to work, decorating their base using glue guns (or, for the littlest guests, school glue). Grownups can join the crafting party too. It’s a fun way to spend a couple of hours, and the process helps kids learn to find beautiful new uses for old materials.
During open studio hours, the process is simple: Little makers drop in, choose a base (a flat slab of wood cut into a star, cupcake, crown or other shape) and then fill a bucket with recycled bits and doodads displayed in compartments around the room. Colorful buttons, old blocks, dried flowers, pieces of fabric, bottle caps, stacks of paint color chips — everything is up for grabs. Then, once they have a sufficient stash, they get to work, decorating their base using glue guns (or, for the littlest guests, school glue). Grownups can join the crafting party too. It’s a fun way to spend a couple of hours, and the process helps kids learn to find beautiful new uses for old materials.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Hike to the moss-covered Witch's Castle
Forest Trail
There are a number of kid-friendly hiking trails around Portland but only one where you can incentivize your offspring by saying, “Hey, there’s a Witch’s Castle at the end!” That’s the unofficial name of the abandoned stone house that exists in a lush canyon inside Forest Park. While the moss-and-graffiti-covered structure bears no real connection to witches or castles, it has some chilling history and makes for a cool fort to play in (my 4-year-old marched to the top about a half dozen times).
The highlight of the experience, however, is the hike itself. The 1.6-mile round-trip route starting at Lower Macleay Park takes you through a dense forest along a running creek. With cedars, oaks and firs towering above and ferns sprouting below, it’s a magnificent oasis of green. We took our time on the trail, stopping to point at the many banana slugs slithering around (they’re native to the Pacific Northwest).
Next to the trailhead is a grassy area with picnic tables and restrooms. Parking is limited, so arrive early if you can.
The highlight of the experience, however, is the hike itself. The 1.6-mile round-trip route starting at Lower Macleay Park takes you through a dense forest along a running creek. With cedars, oaks and firs towering above and ferns sprouting below, it’s a magnificent oasis of green. We took our time on the trail, stopping to point at the many banana slugs slithering around (they’re native to the Pacific Northwest).
Next to the trailhead is a grassy area with picnic tables and restrooms. Parking is limited, so arrive early if you can.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Feel the refreshing spray of Multnomah Falls
Waterfall
When in Oregon, you’ll probably want to see at least one waterfall, and it might as well be the state’s tallest waterfall. That’s the famed Multnomah Falls, astonishing in magnitude and loud in sound (roll your windows down as you drive past it, and you’ll hear the roar).
About a 35-minute drive from Portland, the spot attracts big crowds, partly due to its accessibility. For families with kids, you can choose your own adventure — either admire the falls from the base (where it is paved and you can buy snacks), from the Benson Bridge that sits between the two cascades (a very short uphill walk from the base) or from the top of the falls (a steep, 2.2-mile hike that I’d only recommend for teens and older children). We chose option No. 2.
To park in the lot via Interstate 84, Exit 31, reservations are required through Sept. 4. Bring a sweater or light jacket even in the summer — it gets chilly.
About a 35-minute drive from Portland, the spot attracts big crowds, partly due to its accessibility. For families with kids, you can choose your own adventure — either admire the falls from the base (where it is paved and you can buy snacks), from the Benson Bridge that sits between the two cascades (a very short uphill walk from the base) or from the top of the falls (a steep, 2.2-mile hike that I’d only recommend for teens and older children). We chose option No. 2.
To park in the lot via Interstate 84, Exit 31, reservations are required through Sept. 4. Bring a sweater or light jacket even in the summer — it gets chilly.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Sing 'Like a Sturgeon' at Bonneville Fish Hatchery
Experience
Pairing well with a trip to Multnomah Falls is a visit to Bonneville Fish Hatchery, the largest of Oregon’s 33 hatcheries (and a place that our Portland friend had always wanted to check out). There was something worthwhile for everyone on this free excursion near Bonneville Dam.
My husband and his friend enjoyed learning about a salmon’s life cycle on the self-guided tour (though the best time to view the action is mid-September to the first week of November — that’s when you can see workers sort and count fish by sex). I found the rose-covered, tree-lined grounds to be lovely and meditative, and my kids liked putting quarters in the fish food machine and feeding the rainbow trout, which shimmer in the light.
And, of course, we were all happy to meet Herman, an 11-foot, 500-pound, 89-year-old sturgeon that can be viewed from an underwater window. According to the Oregonian, he’s “the state’s most visible and iconic living survivor of the Jurassic Period” — and recently had a birthday party.
My husband and his friend enjoyed learning about a salmon’s life cycle on the self-guided tour (though the best time to view the action is mid-September to the first week of November — that’s when you can see workers sort and count fish by sex). I found the rose-covered, tree-lined grounds to be lovely and meditative, and my kids liked putting quarters in the fish food machine and feeding the rainbow trout, which shimmer in the light.
And, of course, we were all happy to meet Herman, an 11-foot, 500-pound, 89-year-old sturgeon that can be viewed from an underwater window. According to the Oregonian, he’s “the state’s most visible and iconic living survivor of the Jurassic Period” — and recently had a birthday party.
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(Michelle Woo / Los Angeles Times)
Sample bite-sized doughnuts at Pip's
Doughnut Shop
Portland’s doughnut game? Strong. While I’ll avoid declaring a “best” shop here, multiple locals pointed my family to Pip’s Original. And we were glad they did. No, it doesn’t have dizzying displays of rainbow-colored offerings like Voodoo Doughnut, one of the city’s biggest tourist attractions. But it does have a calm vibe, a tightly curated menu and, most important, damn good doughnuts. They’re bite-sized, making them great for kids (and anyone who likes to leave no flavor unsampled). We tried cinnamon sugar, raw honey & sea salt and candied bacon maple — all fried to order and divine.
As a parent, I appreciated the bookshelf filled with classic kid titles (we flipped through “Mad About Madeline” as we waited for our order) and the restroom (called the Necessary Room) that was equipped with a changing table. The sweetest detail might be the fact that the shop gives guests a dozen free doughnuts on their birthday. Many Portlanders have made a tradition of snapping a photo with their birthday treats next to the Pip’s sign.
As a parent, I appreciated the bookshelf filled with classic kid titles (we flipped through “Mad About Madeline” as we waited for our order) and the restroom (called the Necessary Room) that was equipped with a changing table. The sweetest detail might be the fact that the shop gives guests a dozen free doughnuts on their birthday. Many Portlanders have made a tradition of snapping a photo with their birthday treats next to the Pip’s sign.
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