Gucci: Confidence to spare

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The Gucci woman is one tough babe. The white dress that opened the show may have looked innocent enough -- figure-hugging with striking white cutouts at the waist and neckline. But little did we know what Frida Giannini was about to unleash.

Out came a woman ready for action in techno sport leggings with Velcro ankle tabs, anoraks or blazers with cinch pulleys, laced cords, mesh inserts and utility pockets, and pencil skirts with the classic horse bit reinterpreted as a cord belt. I half expected the models to pull out throwing stars, or pluck one of the silver metal embroideries from the cage-like jeweled harnesses on their sexy silk jersey evening gowns, and use them as weapons.

It was a clear vision of a confident woman, even if the details felt a little overdone at times. Giannini set out to explore the dual forces of modern athleticism and traditional craft, which might have been too much to chew on. The group of Ikat print dresses, for example, was a bit jarring. Indeed, Giannini could probably have squeezed two collections out of all the things she tried to include in this one.

Still, this collection was a confident step forward. And if they ever decide to make a film with a female version of James Bond, they will know who to call.

-- Booth Moore

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