Espresso in the house
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Have you ever gone out to a restaurant, had a fantastic (and pricey) meal and then, just as you’re basking in the glory of your farmhouse cheese plate or your Tahitian vanilla panna cotta, been served a cup of java so mediocre that it wrecks the entire experience? These two men think that happens far too often -- and they want to do something about it.
On the left is Gino Ridoni, who often pulls the espresso at both of Gino Angelini’s two Italian restaurants: Ridoni is a partner and manager at West Hollywood’s La Terza and is maitre d’ at Angelini Osteria on Melrose. When Ridoni isn’t making a mean ristretto on the Bravo machine at the Osteria, he’s working La Terza’s Brasilia (Bravo beans at the former, Lillo at the latter). On the right is Larry Silverton, Encino lawyer -- and recent graduate of an intensive barista class at Intelligentsia Coffee’s Chicago headquarters.
Larry is also the father of two daughters who, it must be noted, also take their espresso seriously (Nancy Silverton, of the two Mozzas, and Gail Silverton, of Gelato Bar in North Hollywood).
Larry and Gino met 20 years ago, when Larry was helping to set up Campanile and Gino was first over from Italy. It’s been a friendship forged by many cappuccinos, like this one that Gino pulled at La Terza yesterday while Larry watched, admiring the stream of coffee (‘it should be as thin as a mouse’s tail,’ said Larry), the velvety crema and Gino’s decorative skills.
And the caffeine crusade is going multi-generational: Gail’s son Nick is getting ready to open a coffee shop in Boston, in partnership with his highly caffeinated grandfather. When Larry’s not behind Gail’s gelato bar, where he likes to pull shots, he’ll be in Boston, working on his latte art.
-- Amy Scattergood
Photos by Amy Scattergood
