Far East Pearl’s Oyster

BANGKOK, Thailand —  Two well-mannered elephants, whose presence guaranteed good luck on this auspicious occasion, knelt as Princess Galyani Vadhana, sister of the King of Thailand, rechristened the Pearl of Scandinavia as the Ocean Pearl in this city on Feb. 15.

It’s been almost a year since Ocean Cruise Line, owner of the Ocean Princess and Ocean Islander, acquired Pearl Cruises and its ship, the only cruise ship positioned all year in the Far East.

Just as they announced at the time, they have created a dramatic cosmetic makeover for the former Scandinavian ferry, adding 12 feet to the bow to give it a sleeker line and reworking the awkward layout of public rooms so that traffic flows much smoother.

The intended $5.4-million refurbishing during 38 days in dry dock in Singapore in January and February climbed to $6.5 million, partly due to, according to Ocean Cruise Line owner Gerry Harrod, “The damaged vessels from the (Persian) Gulf wars showed up just about the same time, and the prices went up on the spot.”

Dazzling Transformation

Whatever the cost, the transformation is dazzling.

Formerly dark, dowdy interiors have been lightened and brightened with beveled mirrors set into white and cinnabar wood panels, with fashionable rose, mauve and lavender blue furnishings. The low ceilings have been covered with reflective metallic materials.

Outside on the afterdeck areas, the old green Astroturf has been replaced by teak decking, and a new barbecue grill has been added to serve hamburgers, hot dogs and shrimp kebabs at lunchtime.

The most improved public space of all is the dining room, moved forward to where a seldom-used lounge used to be. Now called the Orchid Room, it has rose-colored chairs, wide windows and sociable round tables instead of the long rectangular ones that made conversation difficult.

Perhaps it’s because the dining room is so much prettier that the food tastes better, because chief steward Peter Tobler says the recipes and cooks haven’t changed.

We particularly enjoyed the fresh steamed vegetables, breakfast and lunch omelets, and a special 12-course chef’s dinner that began with Sevruga caviar and blini and ended with a beautiful chocolate mousse mosaic that looked like a painting. Tobler says they are encouraging passengers to order favorite special dishes that are not on the menu.

Favorite Meeting Place

An elegant and inviting piano bar, now where the dining room used to be, instantly became everyone’s favorite place to meet for a drink. Some of the bar prices have even been lowered; a glass of house wine that used to go for $2.25 is now $1.75. There’s also a glamorous new shop with a special collection of Ocean Pearl jewelry from Tiffany’s.

While not all the longtime Pearl passengers aboard the inaugural were pleased with the transformation--some complained about the mirrors and shiny surfaces--everyone was happy to find the same wonderful Filipino room stewards and waiters, as well as many of the key personnel from before.

Shore excursions director Ornulf Johannesen is still giving his wildly popular ports of call lectures to standing room only audiences, the best crash course we know on how to behave properly in the Orient. And Australian songstress and social director Kirri Adams is everywhere at once, making people feel welcome.

Just about the only problem the $6.5-million refurbishing failed to clear up for the inaugural sailing was a strong vibration in the stern.

It always has been there, but is more noticeable now that the show lounge has been rearranged, with the bar and all its glassware where the stage and dance floor had been, right above the worst of the vibrations.

Cabins With Bathtubs

Passengers in some of the aft cabins were also troubled by noise and vibration, but we found both forward and midships cabins quiet and comfortable. Not all have been completely refurbished, but the work continues.

Ocean Pearl cabins are larger than average, and many have bathtubs. Ten outside and five inside single cabins are also available.

With 29 suites and only 32 moderate or standard inside cabins, “We have too many suites and not enough bottom-of-the-line cabins,” Harrod says.

Under Ocean’s aegis, Pearl Cruises will be aiming for more younger people and more European passengers than before.

Definitely in Asia

They definitely plan to keep the Ocean Pearl in Asia--Ocean’s other two ships cruise Europe in the summer and the Caribbean and South America in winter--and are looking at a new China itinerary for next season.

The ship offers two China programs--the China Explorers, a 20-day cruise for $3,295 to $9,750 per person double, visiting Hong Kong, Shanghai, Wuxi, Suzhou, Qingdao, Yantai, Beijing, Dalian, Pusan and Kobe, and the China Discovery, a 14-day sailing from Hong Kong to Shanghai, Yantai, Beijing, Dalian and Seoul, from $2,750 to $7,950 per person double, not including air fare.

On July 4 and 19 and Aug. 3 and 18 the Ocean Pearl is offering low-priced promotional fares on an 18-day Grand Orient itinerary between Hong Kong and Bangkok, with calls at Singapore, Semarang for Borobudur, Bali, Manila and Whampoa for Canton.

Prices from $2,899 to $4,799 per person double, including round-trip air fare from Los Angeles or San Francisco, or a $99 add-on from Dallas, Denver, Houston and major Eastern and Midwestern cities. Book through your travel agent.

Special fares are also available on the April 21 and May 2 China Discovery sailings, from $2,299 to $4,248, including free round-trip air fare from Los Angeles or San Francisco.