Mangia, Mangia

Tagliatelle, tortellini, tirami su. You’ll find them at the following restaurants, which run the gamut from traditional to trendy. Locanda Veneta (8638 W. 3rd St., West Los Angeles, (213) 274-1893). This is the place that the foodies are flocking to. And no wonder. The prices are reasonable and the service is sweet. The menu may be small and fairly simple, but the salads are good and the entrees--a fat veal chop, veal scaloppine and various grilled fish--are all simple and fine. The pasta is tasty. Gnocchi are light. And the risotto is a treat. For dessert the creme caramel is rich and tasty. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Fri., dinner only Sat. MasterCard, Visa and American Express. Beer and wine. Valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $35-$60. Mum’s (144 Pine Ave., Long Beach, (213) 437-7700). This Long Beach restaurant consists of a long, hyper-modern room with skylights and neon accents in the ceiling. The food is hip, up-to-date ‘80s Italian. Start with the cappellacci, a giant ravioli stuffed with duck mousse, accompanied by a pleasing sauce of wild mushrooms, meat glaze and a little tomato. The desserts don’t make much effort to be Italian, except for the luscious tirami su powdered with cocoa. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner daily. All major credit cards. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$67. Lombardo’s Cucina (4954 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 784-6051). Lombardo’s bright white exterior in a small corner mini-mall sports cheerful pink neon. Everything’s gleaming and new--gorgeous green marble, glass brick and red tablecloths. The calamari fritti is good--chewy and crispy. The ricotta-stuffed ravioli, drizzled with melted butter and topped with a few shreds of fragrant fresh sage, is a simple and perfect dish. Another knockout is the linguine calamari in a clear white wine sauce. At lunch, there’s a meatball sandwich, full of dense red sauce, big spiced meatballs and sheets of mozzarella that’s bound to make you want to return. Skip the unspired desserts. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner daily. All major credit cards. Beer and wine. Parking lot. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$40. Luna Rossa Ristorante Italiano (4627 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks (818) 981-9380). Luna Rossa has become a neighborhood standby. It’s the place to come without reservations or premeditations. The hearty escarole and white bean soup is garlicky and profoundly satisfying. The antipasto is a mixed bag and worthwhile; so is the Pam salad. There’s a wide range of pasta, from simple to oversauced. Try the calamari linguine-- the squid is tender, the tomato sauce light and tasty. Skip the pedestrian desserts and order a cup of the excellent espresso. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner daily. MasterCard, Visa and American Express. Beer and wine. Street parking. Dinner only. Sat. and Sun. MasterCard, Visa and American Express. Beer and wine. Street parking. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$40. Pazzia (755 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 657-9271). Pazzia may mean “craziness” but everything in this spare, elegant restaurant seems very much under control. The ceilings are high, the silverware is Ricci and the food is unlike anything you’re likely to find elsewhere. Start with pappa al pomodoro, a seductive mush of tomatoes, bread and olive oil, and you’ll be tempted to order seconds. Try the excellent pasta. Have a dish of risotto. And then try the entrees. The menu is constantly changing, but good choices have been veal served with clams; small, delicate lamb chops or striped bass with onion marmalade. If you still have room for dessert, don’t miss the gelati . Lunch and dinner Mon.-Fri., dinner only Sat. MasterCard, Visa and American Express. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $50-$80.