The Numbers Game, Part 1 : <i> One of these restaurants might be numero uno with you.</i>

DC 3, at the Santa Monica Airport, 2800 Donald Douglas Loop North, Santa Monica. (213) 399-2323. Style: Updated grill food guaranteed to get you out of a tailspin. Setting: Arty grill for the ‘90s. Recommended dishes: Rack of lamb; charred tuna with citrus sauce; sea bass in saffron broth. Cost per per son: $22-$50.

Delacey’s Club 41, 41 Delacey St., Pasadena. (818) 795-4141. Style: A cross between the Grill and Musso & Frank. Setting: A new/old kind of place with prominent bar. Recommended dishes: Boston clam chowder; Caesar salad; veal chop. Cost per person: $10-$30.

Five Feet, 328 Glenneyre St., Laguna Beach. (714) 497-4955. Style: Pricey, precious nouvelle Chinese. Setting: Warehouse as art museum. Recommended dishes: Warm goat cheese won ton; minced duck breast with pine nuts; sweet and sour catfish. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Five Feet Too, 1145 Newport Center Drive (in Fashion Island), Newport Beach. (714) 640-5250. Style: Pricey, precious nouvelle Chinese too. Setting: More refined warehouse as art museum. Recommended dishes: Pot stickers; curried spring rolls; smoked trout salad. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Pho So 1, 7231 Reseda Blvd., Reseda. (818) 996-6515. Style: Vietnamese answer to Art’s Deli. Setting: Rec room. Recommended dishes: Pho dac biet , brisket, tripe and beef noodle soup; bun thit , noodle salad; bo bay mon , seven-course beef dinner. Cost per person: $3-$10.