Wonders of Nature on Big Sur Walk

Most travelers think of Big Sur as, well, Big Sur--the hamlet with the gas pump and the general store and nearby Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.

But at the far south end of Big Sur country, in Los Padres National Forest, are the little-visited destinations of Silver Peak and Salmon Creek. A hike through the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains in this area is guaranteed to help you get away from it all, which, in this case, would certainly include other Big Sur visitors.

Situated in the far southwestern corner of Monterey County, near the border with San Luis Obispo County, the Salmon Creek/Silver Peak area of the Santa Lucia Mountains rises like a fist from the Pacific Ocean. Three frisky creeks flow from the mountains to the sea: Villa Creek, Salmon Creek and San Carpoforo Creek.

The area was geographically gerrymandered out of the Ventana Wilderness when it was established in 1984. The Sierra Club and other conservationists periodically mount campaigns to add wilderness protection to some 14,000 acres of the southern Los Padres National Forest.

While Salmon Creek has not yet been proclaimed an “official” wilderness--activists are currently attempting to get the area added to the Ventana Wilderness--and while it receives few visitors, it is a great place to take a hike. One highlight is an isolated grove of coastal redwoods along Villa Creek; it’s the world’s southernmost stand.

In addition to redwoods, there are other botanical highlights, including a grove of the rare Sargent cypress at the head of Salmon Creek. The digger pine and Santa Lucia fir that bristle atop the peaks, and the files of oaks growing in the mountains’ folds and hollows, are delights for photographers.

Hikers will probably see plenty of deer, squirrels, rabbits and raccoons, as well as those trail-side sunbathers--lizards. If you hear something gobble in the bushes, it’s no doubt the call of a native wild turkey.

Without a doubt, the weirdest wildlife a hiker may encounter is a zebra. The striped creatures sometimes stray into the national forest from the nearby Hearst Castle ranch property.

This hike, suitable for a strenuous day hike or more leisurely weekend backpack, offers a chance to sample the diversity of the south end of the Santa Lucia Mountains--lush fern canyons, fir forests, oak pasture lands--and sweeping views of the majestic coast and Salinas Valley.

Directions to trail head: Salmon Creek Ranger Station (now closed, but it’s a good landmark) is a few miles north of the San Luis Obispo/Monterey County line. The trail head is a hundred yards south of the station. Ample off-road parking is available at the station. The signed Salmon Creek Trail begins on the east side of the highway, on the south side of the creek. At the beginning of the trail there’s a great view of Salmon Creek Falls.

Forest information is available at Pacific Valley Station on Highway 1, about 10 miles north of the Salmon Creek trail head.

The hike: Salmon Creek Trail immediately begins climbing, first through lush stream-side vegetation, then across the exposed slopes of the canyon, covered with seasonal wildflowers. The often dense fog here guards the flower show late into spring.

A thousand feet above sea level, the trail crosses a stream and ascends into a forest of Douglas fir, often called spruce--which helps explain the forthcoming destinations of Spruce Creek and Spruce Camp.

Two miles from the trail head is the Spruce Creek Trail junction. The trail to the right leads south toward Dutra Spring and San Carpojo Creek. The main trail continues straight ahead up the main canyon of Salmon Creek. A few hundred yards of walking and you’ll drop down to Spruce Creek Camp, located at the confluence of the waters of Salmon Creek and Spruce Creek. Spruce Creek Camp is in deep shade.

The trail resumes on the other side of Spruce Creek and continues along the south slope of Salmon Creek. You cross a meadow, then continue ascending moderately to Estrella Camp, a grassy, shady area along Salmon Creek.

The trail soon rises above the last trees and ventures out onto hot, brushy, upper canyon slopes. You climb 1,800 feet in the next 2 1/2 miles; this is a very hot stretch of trail in summer.

You reach the high point of the trail (3,120 feet) at Coast Ridge Road, which marks the boundary between Ft. Hunter Liggett Military Reservation and Los Padres National Forest. Bear left on the road. On clear days you’ll be able to see the ocean to the west, the Salinas Valley to the east. In one-tenth of a mile, you’ll reach the junction of the Cruickshank Trail. Descend half a mile on rough eroded road to Lion’s Den Camp--two small, flat areas, often situated just above the coastal clouds. Water supply is from a small creek.

Leaving Lion’s Den, you follow Silver Peak Road half a mile to a junction. (Peak-baggers won’t overlook Silver Peak--3,590 feet--on the left.) Cross the road and follow the Cruickshank Trail. The trail descends, crossing a creek, and drops 1,000 feet in the next 2 1/2 miles. You’ll get fine views of the Villa Creek drainage. In spring, waterfalls can be seen cascading down the canyon. Silver Camp, not shown on forest service maps, is a stream-side camp with plenty of flat tenting sites.

Three-quarters of a mile from Silver Camp, you veer south on the Buckeye Trail. The path begins ascending through heavy timber, climbing the shady north slope. The trail descends to Redwood Creek, crossing it and proceeding south along the ridge separating Villa Creek and Redwood Creek canyons. The trail grows more tentative as it enters a meadow and reaches Buckeye Camp, which has a developed spring.

Leaving the meadowland, you contour around to the western slopes, receiving the twin pleasures of ocean breezes and coastal views. You descend a ridge, cross Soda Springs Creek, and arrive at a signed junction. Buckeye Trail (signed Soda Springs Trail) descends to Highway 1. This hike heads south, descending a mile through grassland and chaparral back to the trail head.

SANTA LUCIA MOUNTAINS Salmon Creek Trail Where: Los Padres National Forest, south of Big Sur Distance: From Coast Highway to Spruce Camp, 4 miles round trip, with 800-foot elevation gain; to Estrella Camp, 6 1/2 miles round trip, with 1,200-foot elevation gain; return via Cruikshank Buckeye trails, 14 miles round trip, with 3,000 foot elevation gain. Terrain: Steep Santa Lucia Mountains rise steeply out of the Pacific. Fern canyons, oak-dotted meadows. Highlights: Southernmost redwood forest, magnificent views of Big Sur coast. Degree of difficulty: Moderate to strenuous. Precautions: Treat all back-country water before drinking. Trails are often overgrown with brush and subject to mudslides. For more information: Contact the Los Padres National Forest, Monterey District, at (408) 385-5434.