RESTAURANTS : THE WINE LIST

Downtown restaurants in major eastern cities cater to business people, which means having the broadest possible beverage list. The depth and breadth of McCormick & Schmick’s wine list gives you the feeling you’re in New York or Chicago. Where this list diverges is in the pricing, because New Yorkers seem not to flinch at paying $40 for a $10 wine. McCormick & Schmick’s, however, has the most reasonable wine prices of any Downtown Business People restaurant I know. Of 20 Chardonnays, 13 are less than $30 a bottle, including such values as 1990 Cuvaison, $23.95; 1990 Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River, $22.75, and 1990 Silverado, $23.75.

Red wine isn’t likely to be a big thing at a seafood-oriented place, but 1989 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon, $28.75, or 1990 Havens Merlot, $23.95, would work well with hearty seafood dishes.

There are also great offbeat wines, such as 1989 Trimbach Gewurztraminer, $24.75; 1991 Adelsheim Pinot Gris, a great wine and a bargain at $14.75, and 1990 Van Duzer Riesling, $12.95. All are excellent aperitifs, but dry enough to go with food.