THE WINE LIST

Woodside’s almost-all-California wine list has two problems common in upscale restaurants: A markup formula that prices expensive wines out of reach of most consumers, and no vintage dates.

On pricing: The attractive Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay, which sells at nearby discount shops for below $14, is $34 here--double the suggested retail price of $17.

Moreover, because 1988 was a difficult year for Cabernet Sauvignon in Northern California, the Heitz Cabernet (an ‘88) is a poor choice at $32. Better is 1990 Raymond Cabernet, a great vintage, at $26.

Among the good values are Brander Sauvignon Blanc, $17, and Carneros Creek “Fleur de Carneros” Pinot Noir, $19. Both are about twice their retail prices, but at least they are excellent.