Nothin’ Says Lovin’ . . .

Few things warm a winter table better than a basket of homemade muffins or rolls. But who has the time?

Almost anyone, actually. Dependable modern leavenings and ovens--not to mention electric mixers--make baking relatively easy. And there’s no need to rise before dawn to bake, for breads freeze wonderfully. The following rolls and muffins can be made days or weeks ahead.

I recommend freezing fully baked bread, not unbaked dough--it’s tricky to bring dough to the rise after thawing. Cool the baked muffins or rolls completely, then place them in a plastic food bag, close the bag tightly around and seal the bag well. Place this bag inside another plastic food bag and seal before placing in the freezer.

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The Parker House roll originated in the Parker House hotel in Boston. The name has come to mean a dinner roll made from a small rectangle folded in half, giving a split top to the roll. The problem with most Parker House roll recipes is that the split usually opens up too far during baking. By placing the rolls on the baking sheet as I have suggested, you eliminate this problem. The dough requires little kneading, as it develops fast. It’s also grand for making other kinds of rolls and coffee cakes.

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS

1/2 cup warm water

2 packages dry yeast

2 cups warm milk

1/2 cup vegetable shortening

6 tablespoons butter

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 eggs, at room temperature

7 to 8 cups flour

1/4 cup butter, melted

Combine water and yeast in small bowl. Stir and let stand 5 minutes to dissolve.

Combine warm milk, shortening, 6 tablespoons butter, salt and eggs in large mixing bowl. Beat until well blended. Stir in yeast and 4 cups flour. Mix vigorously, either in mixer with paddle attachment or by hand, using wooden spoon, adding more flour as needed to make soft, manageable dough.

Knead dough 1 minute, either using mixer with dough hook or by hand on lightly floured surface. Let dough stand 10 minutes. Then resume kneading until smooth and elastic. Put dough in greased bowl, cover and place in warm spot to rise until doubled in bulk.

Punch dough down. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces. While you work with 1 part, cover remaining pieces with slightly dampened dish towel.

On lightly floured surface, roll first piece of dough into rectangle about 8x16 inches. Cut rectangle into 4 strips approximately 2x16 inches. Cut each strip in 4 (4-inch) lengths. Using pastry brush, brush half of each length with remaining 1/4 cup melted butter. Fold, overlapping top half about 1/2 inch over bottom half. Place rolls, smooth-side-up, on greased baking sheet so that each roll is resting slightly on previous roll.

Repeat with remaining pieces of dough. Cover rolls with foil or plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

Bake at 350 degrees until lightly browned on top, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove and serve warm. Makes 64 rolls.

Each roll contains about:

83 calories; 117 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

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Anadama muffins are a wonderful, lusty example of New England bread. If you are reluctant to tackle the Parker House rolls, these are easy to whip up in minutes.

ANADAMA MUFFINS

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3/4 cup molasses

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1 1/2 cups milk

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1 cup raisins

Combine all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, yellow cornmeal, baking soda and salt in large mixing bowl. Stir with fork to blend well. Add molasses, vinegar, milk and butter. Stir briskly to blend. Stir in raisins.

Fill 18 greased muffin tins 3/4 full of batter. Bake at 400 degrees just until cake tester comes out clean when inserted into center of muffin, about 12 minutes. Do not overbake. Remove from oven and serve warm. Makes 18 muffins.

Each muffin contains about:

155 calories; 227 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.32 gram fiber.

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The cranberry muffins are moist with a delicate orange flavor. I have used orange extract rather than the usual grated orange zest, and I think they are far more pleasing.

CRANBERRY MUFFINS

2 eggs

1/2 cup vegetable oil

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon orange extract or 1 tablespoon orange zest

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries, chopped into bits

Beat eggs with fork in large mixing bowl. Add oil and sugar. Mix well. Stir in milk and orange extract. Blend well.

Add flour, baking soda and salt. Stir briskly just until blended. Stir in cranberries.

Fill 12 greased muffin tins at least 2/3 full (for high domes, fill to top of tins). Bake at 325 degrees just until cake tester comes out clean when inserted into center of muffin, 15 to 20 minutes for standard-size muffins, about 10 minutes for tiny muffins. Do not overbake. If in doubt about doneness, pry 1 muffin out of tin and break apart to see. Serve warm. Makes 12 standard-size muffins or 3 dozen tiny muffins.

Each standard-size muffin contains about:

222 calories; 213 mg sodium; 36 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.2 gram fiber.