Gingerbread

Whether a moist cake or a crisp cookie, spicy, molasses-sweet gingerbread is the perfect holiday confection.

* La Brea Bakery: The individual round gingerbread cakes here are classic, old-fashioned gingerbread: dark, moist and wonderfully spicy. (Gingerbread cakes, $3.50 each.) La Brea Bakery, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 939-6813.

* Perfectly Sweet: At this neighborhood bakery in Alhambra, the gingerbread boys have buttons of shiny white royal icing and the gingerbread girls have skirts. Sales of gingerbread boys and gingerbread girls are neck and neck. (Gingerbread cookies, $1.50 each.) Perfectly Sweet, 126 W. Main St., Alhambra, (626) 282-3273.

* Julienne: The pretty, none-too-spicy gingerbread boys and girls come in three sizes: small, medium and large. (Gingerbread cookies, 60 cents, 75 cents, $1 each.) Julienne, 2649 Mission St. San Marino, (626) 441-2299.

* Spago Beverly Hills: Pastry chef Sherry Yard makes two spectacular desserts: warm gingerbread cake (with an apple baked into it) served with cider sabayon and caramel sauce; and lebkuchen souffle, a gingerbread souffle with apple cider sabayon and caramel sauce served on the side. (Gingerbread desserts, $8.50-$10.) Spago Beverly Hills, 176 N. Can~on Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-0880.

* Basix Cafe: At this West Hollywood cafe, the gingerbread boys are going fast; there are, however, plenty of gingerbread girls. (Gingerbread cookies, $1.25 each.) Basix, 8333 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 848-2460.

* Babalu: The pastry chef at this eclectic and popular Santa Monica cafe has created a delicious hybrid of seasonal riffs: a moist cranberry ginger spice cake. (Ginger cake, $5 a slice; $25 whole cake.) Babalu, 1002 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 395-2500.

* Mani’s Bakery: Crisp, mildly spiced gingerbread men and women are sweetened with barley malt and decorated with raisins. There are also heart sandwiches generously filled with chocolate ganache. (Gingerbread men and women $1.15 each; gingerbread hearts, $2.50 each.) Mani’s Bakery, 519 S. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 938-8800, and 2507 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 396-7700.

* Europane: Baker Sumi Chang makes “mini-cakes” of moist spicy dark gingerbread with sauteed apples. Larger cakes, which serve 10, may be ordered. (Gingerbread cake, $3.50 serving; large cake, $25.) Europane, 950 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, (818) 577-1828.