1995 Les Figuieres Viognier-Roussanne, Co^tes du Rho^ne ($12.95)

A polished blend of Viognier and Roussanne grapes from the Rhone’s respected enologist Jean-Luc Colombo, best known for his luscious Cornas. At first impression, this softly perfumed, pale gold wine tastes of ripe pears; later, there’s a touch of grapefruit. Served slightly chilled, it’s as thirst-quenching as cool spring water. It would be a terrific match with grilled whole fish or fried sand dabs--or any other fried seafood.