Stars of the Show
The “Wings of the Dove” gowns were stuck in U.S. Customs. Kim Basinger’s drop-dead wardrobe from “L.A. Confidential” was home with the actress. And try finding a mannequin small enough to fit Mike Myers’ “Austin Powers” wacky get-ups.
It’s not easy pulling together wardrobes--or appropriate display pieces, for that matter--from 12 of last year’s most intriguing costume movies. However, from far and near, they have been assembled for the sixth annual exhibit “The Art of Motion Picture Costume Design,” which begins Tuesday at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising.
The public will have a rare chance to examine how a garment looks off camera and out of context. The array includes gloriously beaded dresses from “Titanic”; two basic, boxy suits from “Men in Black”; and extravagant bridal party gowns from “My Best Friend’s Wedding.”
By the time Fox Searchlight Pictures was contacted, the studio had given away all of Sigourney Weaver’s 1970s’ costumes from “The Ice Storm” to Goodwill Industries. So, Carol Oditz, the costume designer, pulled together what she thought were interesting clothes that other characters in the upscale suburban drama wore.
“The studios are very helpful and generous in almost 100% of the cases, but it’s sometimes difficult to track them down,” said curator Maggie Murray.
When Jeffrey Kurland, costume designer for “My Best Friend’s Wedding,” came to check out his display--from the movie’s elaborate wedding sequence--he discovered one of the dresses didn’t belong. Julia Roberts’ lavender maid-of-honor gown was supposed to have beads. The beadless version was from the dress-fitting scene, not the wedding. And the silk roses that trailed Cameron Diaz’s wedding gown were nowhere to be seen. Murray rectified at least one of the mistakes. The beaded lavender dress is still at a fashion exhibition in Tokyo. The roses have arrived separately from the same Tokyo show in time for the FIDM show.
To get her hands on Basinger’s sleek evening gowns and eye-catching hooded cape from “L.A. Confidential,” Murray had to contact the actress directly because Warner Bros. no longer owned them--Basinger did. That’s not unusual, Murray said. Some stars have it written into their contracts that lets them keep the clothes they wore in the movie. When costumes from “Schindler’s List” were included, the school had to hire someone to go to Liam Neeson’s New York apartment and pick up the costumes he wore because he owned them, too.
The show highlights Murray’s movie picks. Besides being the show’s creator, she is FIDM’s visual director.
“If it goes on a wall or goes in a window or goes in a gallery, I supervise it,” she said. Her criteria for selection come down simply to what she considers fine examples of the craft.
Even though five of the 12 movies featured in the show did earn Academy Award nominations Tuesday for best costume design, Murray never worries about possible Oscars when choosing for the exhibit. (“Amistad,” “Kundun,” “Oscar and Lucinda,” “Titanic,” and “The Wings of the Dove” were the nominees.)
In addition, she doesn’t necessarily look for the kind of diversity that will be displayed this year, from the authentic Tibetan costumes in “Kundun” to the off-the-wall, mod inventions of “Austin Powers.”
“I just use my own subjective eye,” said Murray.
As for “Titanic,” a movie whose costumes she especially adored, Murray was certain it would not only win a nomination, but also influence contemporary fashion.
“The dresses are almost modern in some way,” she said, admiring a heavily beaded, red, empire gown.
Murray has discovered that it’s not only the public who is excited by the show. Costume designers always tell her how happy they are to be noticed.
“Nobody showcases their work. Costumes are like movie music. It helps, but nobody pays much attention to it,” she said.
“The Art of Motion Picture Costume Design” begins Tuesday and will be on view from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily (except Sunday) through April 9, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, 919 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 624-1200. The show is free to the public.
The Featured Players
1. Amistad*
2. Austin Powers
3. Kundun*
4. L.A. Confidential
5. Men in Black
6. Mrs. Brown
7. My Best Friend’s Wedding
8. Oscar and Lucinda*
9. Starship Troopers
10. The Ice Storm
11. Titanic*
12. Wings of the Dove*
*Academy Award nominees for best costume design
