Smart Navigating Keeps Bermuda Crowds at Bay

If Bermuda has always been on your wish list, 2000 might be the year to visit, especially by sea, because a record six ships are providing weekly service this season. And living and eating aboard your cruise ship is usually less expensive than at a resort.

For decades, the island, citing environmental and cultural concerns, has dictated which ships may call regularly (no mega-ships allowed), which dock areas they may use and how many may arrive on any one day.

The island’s three cruise ports are the city of Hamilton, where limited docking space across the street from the major downtown shops is highly prized; the historic Royal Naval Dockyard at the island’s west end; and the colorful town of St. George’s on the island’s northeast end. Some ships spend their entire visit at one port, but others cruise from one to another.

A look at the ships contracted for the 2000 season, April through October, suggests that Bermuda welcomes ships that carry 640 to 1,600 passengers. Also, because vessels are evenly dispersed around the island, passengers will not find themselves moving in lock-step with several thousand other day-trippers, as sometimes happens in St. Thomas or Skagway, Alaska.

The most popular stretches of sand are Horseshoe Bay and Elbow Beach, accessible from Hamilton; Devonshire Bay for family swimming and fishing; the pink sand at John Smith’s Bay in Smith’s Parish, about halfway between Hamilton and St. George’s; and the smooth sands and shallow water for children and nonswimmers at Shelly Bay Beach on Harrington Sound and Somerset Long Bay on Somerset Island.

Visitors should keep in mind that Bermuda shorts with knee socks are the island’s quasi-official attire and that abbreviated shorts and beachwear are not appreciated on public streets. Remember also that the island is in a temperate rather than tropical climate zone; we have a closetful of Bermuda sweatshirts we’ve had to buy there on unexpectedly blustery spring days.

The first of the six vessels scheduled for weekly, season-long calls in Bermuda starting in the middle of this month is the Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Majesty. The former Royal Majesty from now-defunct Majesty Cruise Line, the 1,056-passenger ship is a familiar vessel in Bermuda and will sail round trip from Boston every Sunday, arriving at St. George’s on Tuesday mornings and departing on Friday afternoons. Cruise-only fares, including port charges, begin at $1,049 per person, double occupancy, when reserved early.

Early birds booking the first arrival of the season for the Norwegian Majesty may pay as little as $899 per person, double occupancy, for a six-day cruise leaving Boston April 17 and spending three instead of four days at St. George’s.

Two sister ships from Celebrity Cruises, the 1,354-passenger Horizon and Zenith, arrive on May 1 to begin weekly Monday-through-Thursday visits from Fort Lauderdale, Fla. The Horizon docks first at St. George’s, then relocates to Hamilton, while Zenith docks first at Hamilton, then moves to St. George’s. Both vessels sail from New York every Saturday. With early booking discounts, fares begin at $1,199 per person, double occupancy, on the Horizon, $1,249 on the Zenith.

A contract with recently revitalized Crown Cruise Line brings the Crown Dynasty round trip from Philadelphia weekly between June and October. In May and late September and October, six round-trip sailings from Baltimore are also scheduled.

The 800-passenger ship has recently been renovated to reflect a Bermuda-style decor, featuring island artwork, Bermudan names for decks and public areas and Bermudan cuisine--dishes such as Bermuda fish chowder with Outerbridge sherry peppers.

Because the Crown Dynasty departs midweek, it’s the only ship accessing the island on weekends, allowing passengers to spend Friday nights, Saturdays and Sundays in Bermuda at the Royal Naval Dockyard, then sail back to Philadelphia (or Baltimore in May and October) at noon Mondays. Crown’s sailings are marketed in conjunction with Apple Vacations. Fares begin at $999 per person, double occupancy.

The 640-passenger Pacific Princess, the original Love Boat from Princess Cruises, divides its time among three Bermuda ports. The ship sails from New York on Sundays, spends Tuesday afternoons and evenings in St. George’s, Wednesday afternoons and evenings in Hamilton and Thursday afternoons and evenings and Friday mornings at the Royal Naval Dockyard. Cruise-only fares begin at $999 per person, double occupancy, using Love Boat Savers for early booking. Fares vary by season and cabin category.

The largest ship on regular Bermuda service this summer is the 1,600-passenger Nordic Empress, sailing from New York on Sundays, arriving on Tuesdays at the Royal Naval Dockyard, then repositioning to Hamilton on Wednesdays to stay through Friday afternoons. Honeymooners like this ship for its Sunday sailings. Early booking rates begin at $1,149 per person, double occupancy.

Besides the six weekly visitors, other vessels scheduled to call once or twice during the season include Cunard’s QE2 and Seabourn Pride, NCL’s Norwegian Dream, Radisson Seven Seas’ Seven Seas Navigator, Holland America’s Rotterdam VI, Premier’s IslandBreeze, Silversea’s new Silver Shadow and Silver Wind, Regal Cruises’ Regal Empress and Hapag-Lloyd’s new Europa.

For free color brochures, contact a travel agent or the individual cruise lines: Celebrity Cruises at (800) 437-3111; Crown Cruise Line at (877) CROWN21 (276-9621); Norwegian Cruise Line at (800) 327-7030; Princess Cruises at (800) PRINCESS (774-6237); and Royal Caribbean International at (800) 327-6700.